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Hi was wondering if anyone else knows whats goin on here.

Was driving home from tafe this arvo and, noticed as i was in 2nd gear whilst flooring it, from about 4500-5000rpm onwards it feels like someones just pressed the brake pedal a little bit. as in the car really loses its momentum and somewhat slows down for some reason, and only in the higher rev range. Not quite sure how else i can explain it but i can certainly feel the loss of g-force when it happens :laugh: .

has,

fmic

pod (just checked it then and, looks like theres a bit of dirt in the crevices)

HKS EBC 12psi

splitfire coilpacks

intank bosch fuel pump

screamer pipe

xforce cat

3 1/2in all the way with cannon

newish spark plugs

HD clutch

oil + filter done a month ago

using stock ECU and stock turbo, so its running pretty rich atm.

if anyone has any idea what the go is, feedback will be appreciated. :)

this is what i was leaning towards also. a good ECU and tune will sort it out ya reckon?

Definately. I bought a power fc and was blown away at the amount of torque and response increase in every gear.Best thing you can do to take full advantage of your mods.

most likely. in your case its probably most economical to get your stock ecu retuned. some tuning shops can retune the factory r33 ecus nowdays, and still retain operational VCT.

dont go to a tuner that tells you to use an r32 ecu and either disable vct or run it full time, it should only be run in midrange like its originally programmed to do. its a drain on power up top and down low.

+1 for R&R...

12psi, factory ECU = prime candidate.

All cars are different, some play up and some don't but from what you describe and the RPM... It's almost certainly it.

Just back the boost off to 9-10psi and you'll find the problem should go away until you can afford to get some tuneable ECU solution in place

First thing to do is check your spark plugs though!

Make sure they are gapped correctly aswell. The best plugs are coppers not iridium and prob around 0.8mm for a stockish car.

I reckon you will open it up and they will be fouled. Then turn that boost down to about 10 so it dosnt hit rich and retarded and i reckon it will run sweet for ages.

Cheers :)

Edited by Dragonforce

First off, Thanks everyone for the feedback!

Ok i am in the process of saving up for an ECU and tune atm (Vipec), and will turn the boost down in the meantime as suggested.

Cheers Dragonforce but the car had denzo spark plugs put in about 4 months ago, and i know the lads at AutoWorx know what theyre doing.

I wasnt aware the R33 ECU's were at last unlocked? i heard about the whole nistune business, buying the r32 computer and z32 afm and all this and thought bugger that. :)

sorry to hijak but I just wanted some thoughts on my setup

Currently have a S2 r33 with a turbo back 3inch exhaust, std airbox with BMC filter, R34 GT-T cooler and am about to do the 'free boost mod' to get 7-8psi through the whole rev range. Am I likely to suffer from R&R or will the std computer handle this ok? I would love to get a tune but thats not practical just yet

First off, Thanks everyone for the feedback!

Ok i am in the process of saving up for an ECU and tune atm (Vipec), and will turn the boost down in the meantime as suggested.

Cheers Dragonforce but the car had denzo spark plugs put in about 4 months ago, and i know the lads at AutoWorx know what theyre doing.

I wasnt aware the R33 ECU's were at last unlocked? i heard about the whole nistune business, buying the r32 computer and z32 afm and all this and thought bugger that. :blink:

Dr.Drift over east can remap R33 ECU's but it's not cheap..

Otherwise, you can Nistune a z32 ECU to run your R33 with VCT.

And 4 months of running rich as hell will foul spark plugs.. hell, blow a cooler pipe and you can foul them in a few minutes.

sorry to hijak but I just wanted some thoughts on my setup

Currently have a S2 r33 with a turbo back 3inch exhaust, std airbox with BMC filter, R34 GT-T cooler and am about to do the 'free boost mod' to get 7-8psi through the whole rev range. Am I likely to suffer from R&R or will the std computer handle this ok? I would love to get a tune but thats not practical just yet

I reckon 7-8psi would be fine.

my r33 used to run a R32 wastegate actuator (10psi) and once it got over 9psi R&R kicked in and it died in the arse. if your not going to upgrade your ecu dont boost over standard, you will just lose power. i ended up putting R33 actuator back on and standard 2 stage and its 200% better.

most likely. in your case its probably most economical to get your stock ecu retuned. some tuning shops can retune the factory r33 ecus nowdays, and still retain operational VCT.

dont go to a tuner that tells you to use an r32 ecu and either disable vct or run it full time, it should only be run in midrange like its originally programmed to do. its a drain on power up top and down low.

ive got r32 ecu. no loss of torque or power anywhere? same dyno same day

Dr.Drift over east can remap R33 ECU's but it's not cheap..

Otherwise, you can Nistune a z32 ECU to run your R33 with VCT.

And 4 months of running rich as hell will foul spark plugs.. hell, blow a cooler pipe and you can foul them in a few minutes.

I reckon 7-8psi would be fine.

Yeah i read somewhere about this Dr.Drift. its like a swap over deal or something? ie, i send over ECU and he sends over remapped one? if its not cheap, id rather spend a bit more and buy something local that i know can be tuned over and over and not have any hassles with warranty or problems..

hmm.. bugger about the spark plugs :)

Cheers.

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