Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday all my names Chris and i plan to run an 044+surgey and im a bit stuck with the wiring. (ive searched and couldnt find anything i could understand)

First of all i don't really understand the use of a relay, (i know im a noob flame suit is already on) i've googled and what not but i still dont see the necessity?

If anyone has a wiring diagram or their own setup they could help me with that'd be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326940-bosch-044-wiring-setup/
Share on other sites

Gday all my names Chris and i plan to run an 044+surgey and im a bit stuck with the wiring. (ive searched and couldnt find anything i could understand)

First of all i don't really understand the use of a relay, (i know im a noob flame suit is already on) i've googled and what not but i still dont see the necessity?

If anyone has a wiring diagram or their own setup they could help me with that'd be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Chris

So you don't understand how to do it, yet you find the use of a relay un-necessary?

Yeah people just spend more time wiring them in for nothing, so you should be right to skip it.

Stolen from GTR.co.uk, this is how I set up mine..

I havent read your threads in depth, but... To "hard wire" your pumps via a relay, Which is what i did. You run the earth directly to battery, or a very good body earth (Use wire that is capable of delivering 15amps+ per pump.)

Get a 4 pin relay ( ive got a 30 amp relay, but Im only running one HKS pump. Higher amp relays are availiable) The pins on a 4pin relay, are numbered 85,86,30 and 87. Pins 85 and 86, are for the switching windings and 30,87 is where your current runs through.

Take your permanant live wire directly from the battery, and connect it to pin 30. From pin 87,wire to the live side of the pump.

Pin 85 should go to earth (5, or 8 amp wire).

Connect the original pump live to pin 86 on the relay. Done. Mount the relay so it looks good.

A standard pump uses approx 5amps on tick over, so allow 15 for a proper one. put a fuse in the main live. 20amps per pump id say, and use the same amp rated wire you use for your earth. you could run one, or two relays it depends what you want to do.

This method allows the ecu to switch the pumps as intended.:rofl2:

Have a read of this too, explains how relays work.

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay2.htm

Cheers,

Johno

haha cause its so much easier to have a go at someone than actually explain it.

50+cool points to you bloke.

I didnt say they werent a neccesity i just dont understand why their needed.

Ive read that and it doesnt say why you should run a relay as opposed to just running a direct wire feed.

btw i dont mind if you come in here and be all like "your a dickhead you dont know anything im number 1 internet warrior look at meee" it just proves what sort of person you are.

Cheers for trying to help though Jonno :rofl2:

http://www.honda-tech.com/attachment.php?a...mp;d=1242243631

Heres a diagram of what you pretty much just said johno.

Anyways i've had more of a read and im starting to understand the application of a relay cheers johnno

haha cause its so much easier to have a go at someone than actually explain it.

50+cool points to you bloke.

I didnt say they werent a neccesity i just dont understand why their needed.

Ive read that and it doesnt say why you should run a relay as opposed to just running a direct wire feed.

btw i dont mind if you come in here and be all like "your a dickhead you dont know anything im number 1 internet warrior look at meee" it just proves what sort of person you are.

Cheers for trying to help though Jonno :D

ouch!!

http://www.honda-tech.com/attachment.php?a...mp;d=1242243631

Heres a diagram of what you pretty much just said johno.

Anyways i've had more of a read and im starting to understand the application of a relay cheers johnno

The two main reasons for using a relay are

1. minimising voltage drop - using heavy cable shortest route between battery and load (pump)

2. Allowing all the other wiring and switches in the circuit except the relay to be relatively low amperage (inside the ecu etc)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...