Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I had a quick look around but couldn't find an answer:

Does anyone have the service manual diagram or similar for R34 GTT Sedan exhaust system with the measurements (length) for all parts:

1. Dump pipe

2. Catalyser

3. Front pipe

4. Front muffler

5. Rear pipe

6. Rear muffler

Also if you have the above for the R34 GTT Coupe or R33 GTSt Coupe that would be greatly appreciated!

I am trying to work out what's involved in modifying R34 GTT Coupe or R33 GTSt Coupe exhaust system (turbo back or just catback) for R34 GTT Sedan - is it just adding extra piping before or after the front muffler, or is it more complicated than that?

The sedan systems are pretty hard to come by and pricey... I know that the system is longer than the coupe one.

I found a good pic of two systems here:

1 x Stock R33 GTST (2 door) Cat back exhaust (Cat back section with stock dual tip muffler)

1 x Stock R34 GTT (2 door) Turbo back exhaust (Dump, front, cat, cat back section, Genuine Nismo VSS Muffler)

2545913150102364341S600x600Q85.jpg

Also a useful diagram from the R34 Gtr Exhaust In R34 Gtt thread:

R34 GTT (assume coupe):

2483462340102364341S600x600Q85.jpg

Thanks in advance!

sedan exhaust is slightly longer so the rear hangers for the tips are at different positions.

everything else is the same.

its around 15-20cm difference.

Awesome, thanks heaps for this Dori34!

So basically all you need is a 15-20cm extension for the rear pipe (before rear muffler) to convert an R34 Coupe system for a Sedan. Sounds like a run of the mill job for an exhaust joint.

Does anyone know the differences between the R33 GTSt Coupe and R34 GTT Coupe systems?

  • 2 weeks later...

I just got a second hand HKS Super Drager catback (for R33 GTS-t) with the intention of getting it modified to suit my R34 GTT sedan.

I thought I'd have to add some extra piping but looking under the car it seems the other way around, I may have to cut some off!

The stock cat rear is roughly where the HKS front muffler front would be.

The cat sits basically under the passenger seat (you can just see at the bottom of the photo) and the front pipe is seriously long:

2514355650102364341S425x425Q85.jpg

Did all the R34 Sedans (this is series 1) come with this arrangement i.e. front pipe straight after dump, before the cat??

Does any manufacturer make thicker front pipes (3" or so) for these things or do you have to go custom?

i have a custom 3" front pipe if you are interested, $80 + post.

just needs to be flanged to suit your dump - been made custom so it sits as close to the body and doesn't sag unlike some off the shelf ones around.

From what i gathered, the R33 GTST length is same as R34 GTT but some hangers are different so have to be modded.

you could always just go your local exhaust shop and get them to supply and fit one?

you dont HAVE to order a japan / brand based exhaust

Yeah getting a custom one is the plan, it probably works out cheaper too.

i have a custom 3" front pipe if you are interested, $80 + post.

just needs to be flanged to suit your dump - been made custom so it sits as close to the body and doesn't sag unlike some off the shelf ones around.

From what i gathered, the R33 GTST length is same as R34 GTT but some hangers are different so have to be modded.

Thanks for the offer, I'll PM you with some further questions.

I'm going to get a quote from an exhaust shop over the next few days, let's see what they think.

  • 5 weeks later...

Just in case anyone is wondering, the approximate measurements of the stock exhaust system are as follows:

  1. Front pipe 50 cm
  2. Cat 39 cm
  3. Mid pipe 50 cm (looks shorter in the photo though)
  4. Mid muffler 30 cm
  5. Rear pipe 80 cm
  6. Rear muffler 50 cm (it is massive)
  7. Tips 10 cm

Please note that these are 'linear' lenghts, not actual pipe lengths.

Here's a quick photo:

2675963180102364341S600x600Q85.jpg

The catback is different between sedan and coupe and it seems that the rear end of the front pipe is mounted slightly differently, too.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...