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hi guys

as some of you know ive been running the E-boost for a little while now. I had some problems with it overshooting, only when cold though, warm/hot days its fine.

I was told i couldnt go wrong with a Blitz Dual SBC Spec R, and that Kier Wilson uses/used one. So i went and got one.

review:

I liked the E-boost controls, not long is needed to be familiar with all the menus. Mounting it wasnt as easy as the blitz, as the e-boost is a bit large and round, and i didnt want it up on the A-pillar.

The blitz was easily double-sided taped under the turbo timer. The blitz controls are even simpler, due to it having less functions i guess, and is simple to use.

I loved playing around with the e-boost settings -I'd play with gate pressure, sensitivity, and the boost set. With the e-boost it is possible to get some amazing boost ramp rates! The gate pressure function is unique to the e-boost, and holds the wastegate totally closed until the point you tell it to open, thereby eliminating creep. You can even set the gate pressure higher than the boost set point, so that the boost shoots up and over, then settles on the set point.

If the e-boost held boost more consistently i wouldnt have changed it.

The blitz i find holds the boost nearly perfectly, and is far more consistent. I am a bit dissappointed that the boost doesnt come on nearly as hard as with the e-boost though.

Also i found that with the e-boost, boost response was different in different gears. This can be fine tuned with the sensitivity function however.

I am now having wastegate actuator problems, which i think could possibly be responsible for the problems i had with the e-boost. So i will try to fix the problem and if successful, i will have another go at setting up the e-boost, as the speed that it brings the boost up is awesome, and really gives you a kick in the back, abruptly and violently if you wish it too! Each of the boost set points have individual gate pressures too, so you can have different ramp rates for the same peak boost. ie 15psi smooth soft boost, and 15psi hard fast boost.

both units are cool, and i paid around the same price for each, give or take a bit. The E-boost, on paper, in my opinion kicks ass, due to the "tunability" of boost control. But in reality i couldt get consistent results. The Blitz was straight forward, dead simple to install, and does what its supposed to do, and is consistent.

At the end of the day i would like to get the e-boost running consistently.

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Great post!

I upgraded (?) from an HKS EVC to an eBoost and planned on doing a before and after run to show how much earlier the eBoost brings boost on, but unfortunately my clutch started to slip right before installation of eBoost, so I wasn't able to do any dyno runs for you guys :(

I can definitely say without a doubt though, that boost certainly DOES come on earlier than the HKS EVC. How much earlier I can't show you though :)

Keep us updated SLY33!

Hey man Ive got a quick question about EBCs in general.

I run a GFB bleeder and while it works quite well, I do have problems with massive spiking while on/off the throttle. Eg running hard through the hills on a cold night, I'll go from decel to WOT and the thing will spike all the way to 16-17psi very breifly before falling back to 13psi. And you can hear the poor engine detonate for a split second. I guess its because the turbo spools up so quickly the bleeder isnt 'quick enough' to bleed off all the boost. Do EBCs stop this? Or will they too overshoot too when the throttle is slammed at high RPM?

Thanks for the review btw. Apparently blitz's Dual Solenoids are some of the best in the business....

Hey man Ive got a quick question about EBCs in general.

I run a GFB bleeder and while it works quite well, I do have problems with massive spiking while on/off the throttle. Eg running hard through the hills on a cold night, I'll go from decel to WOT and the thing will spike all the way to 16-17psi very breifly before falling back to 13psi. And you can hear the poor engine detonate for a split second. I guess its because the turbo spools up so quickly the bleeder isnt 'quick enough' to bleed off all the boost. Do EBCs stop this? Or will they too overshoot too when the throttle is slammed at high RPM?

Thanks for the review btw. Apparently blitz's Dual Solenoids are some of the best in the business....

busky, an ebc should stop it. I know the blitz dsbc's are great at stopping spiking as i had them on my two previous rides. The other handy thing is you can set a boost limit which it wont pass, you can also set how much it will reduce the boost by. EG you want to limit it to 1bar, you can set it so it will spike to 1.1 bar and then drop it back to 1 bar etc, or you can set it to hit that limit and hold it rock steady. Definately worth the extra $$$ in my opinion

  • 6 months later...
hi guys

as some of you know ive been running the E-boost for a little while now. I had some problems with it overshooting, only when cold though, warm/hot days its fine.  

I was told i couldnt go wrong with a Blitz Dual SBC Spec R, and that Kier Wilson uses/used one.  So i went and got one.

review:  

I liked the E-boost controls, not long is needed to be familiar with all the menus. Mounting it wasnt as easy as the blitz, as the e-boost is a bit large and round, and i didnt want it up on the A-pillar.

The blitz was easily double-sided taped under the turbo timer.  The blitz controls are even simpler, due to it having less functions i guess, and is simple to use.

I loved playing around with the e-boost settings -I'd play with gate pressure, sensitivity, and the boost set.  With the e-boost it is possible to get some amazing boost ramp rates!  The gate pressure function is unique to the e-boost, and holds the wastegate totally closed until the point you tell it to open, thereby eliminating creep.  You can even set the gate pressure higher than the boost set point, so that the boost shoots up and over, then settles on the set point.

If the e-boost held boost more consistently i wouldnt have changed it.

The blitz i find holds the boost nearly perfectly, and is far more consistent.  I am a bit dissappointed that the boost doesnt come on nearly as hard as with the e-boost though.

Also i found that with the e-boost, boost response was different in different gears.  This can be fine tuned with the sensitivity function however.

I am now having wastegate actuator problems, which i think could possibly be responsible for the problems i had with the e-boost.  So i will try to fix the problem and if successful, i will have another go at setting up the e-boost, as the speed that it brings the boost up is awesome, and really gives you a kick in the back, abruptly and violently if you wish it too!  Each of the boost set points have individual gate pressures too, so you can have different ramp rates for the same peak boost. ie 15psi smooth soft boost, and 15psi hard fast boost.

both units are cool, and i paid around the same price for each, give or take a bit.  The E-boost, on paper, in my opinion kicks ass, due to the "tunability" of boost control.  But in reality i couldt get consistent results. The Blitz was straight forward, dead simple to install, and does what its supposed to do, and is consistent.  

At the end of the day i would like to get the e-boost running consistently.

Any more developments here. I am considering an eboost. Still recommend it?

i had an e boost and swaped it for the hiperboost system .www.hiperboost.com

although the eboost brought the boost on fast the hiperboost brought it one MUCH faster . without huge spike

my mate runs blitz with the same result .he just added a hiperboost wastegate control and it now works awesome .holds steady boost and comes on faster than e boost

but for the money id rather just run the full hiperboost system .

i had an e boost and swaped it for the hiperboost system .www.hiperboost.com

although the eboost brought the boost on fast the hiperboost brought it one MUCH faster . without huge spike  

my mate runs blitz with the same result .he just added a hiperboost wastegate control and it now works awesome .holds steady boost and comes on faster than e boost  

but for the money id rather just run the full hiperboost system .

My main issue is that boost drops off in the high rev range. How would this sytem help with that? Using a PFC controller.

My main issue is that boost drops off in the high rev range. How would this sytem help with that? Using a PFC controller.

There are other answers, stuff like the turbo is too small, exhaust has too much backpressure or the intercooler/pipework is too restrictive. :D

Hi Guys, I use the Autospeed design(with the Norgren 2 valves) boost controller a lot. It has 2 valves, with one limiting the maximum boost pressure and the other preventing any pressure getting to the wastgate until I want it to. I can adjust the boost build speed to be slower than the turbo specifications can build boost. But I can't make it any faster than the tubo specs allow. So the maximum (fastest) speed of boost build is always limited by the turbo, not the wastegate.

For ~$100 is the cheapest and most effective I can find.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Note that, as with ALL boost controllers, having the wastegate actuator spring rate as close to the boost level you run is very important for stable boost.

nah i thought maybe that too . but ive seen it it is ALL steell and .heaps of people reckon it doesnt spike and isnt effected by temperature like the audi ones .

i had an audi control on my vl turbo .and found that boost was higher under different load situations .

highest in 4th gear . a few people have melted the valves too . my norgren relief valve was all plastic and boost often spiked . although it made boost it was VERY unreliable.

even the e boost can ensure boost doesnt fall off in top end as the controller is able to sense the boost level and vary the valve to suit

the most interesting story behind the audi system is WHY did Julian edgar leave it out of his book published some time after the article .and furthermore why dont autospeed sell them?????????????

Not baggiing what you guys run may work well on your car but it sucked on my vl

and my mates wrx didnt like it at all made 3 psi more in 4th than 1st

nah i thought maybe that too . but ive seen it it is ALL steell and .heaps of people reckon it doesnt spike and isnt effected by temperature like the audi ones .

i had an audi control on my vl turbo .and found that boost was higher under different load situations .

highest in 4th gear . a few people have melted the valves too . my norgren relief valve was all plastic and boost often spiked . although it made boost it was VERY unreliable.

even the e boost can ensure boost doesnt fall off in top end as the controller is able to sense the boost level and vary the valve to suit  

the most interesting story behind the audi system is WHY did Julian edgar leave it out of his book published some time after the article  .and furthermore why dont autospeed sell them?????????????

Not baggiing what you guys run may work well on your car but it sucked on my vl

and my mates wrx didnt like it at all made 3 psi more in 4th than 1st

A few answers..........

Julian "left it out" because the book was written before hand, it took over a year to get published.

Autospeed don't sell them because they can't make money out of it ie; Norgren sell them direct. That's actually good for us as consumers.

I have seen a couple of VL installations, despite temperature warnings, the valves were mounted rignt next to the exhaust. I mount them inside the cold air box with the airfilter.

Maybe the boost build was due to too small a wastegate, or insufficient opening. I have found quite a few that suffered that way, particularly with the standrd VL turbo. Hi flow the wastegate and the problem goes away.

The WRX boost control creep is a well known problem, and it occurs with a number of boost controllers. There is probably an installation issue, or some other logical reason, but I don't work on WRX's, so I don't need to find out.

In summary, very few boost control issues are SOLELY related to the boost controller, there are usually other reasons.

But if you don't like the system streetquick, that's your choice and you are fully entitled to it. :P

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