Max 5psi?!

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

im think a boost leak, but it feels like a pretty solid 5psi that im getting when i full throttle it, i have an aftermarket boost guage and the one in the dash still works, they both read about 5ish psi, if it was a leak somewhere wouldnt the boost slowly die down? instead of a stable 5psi?

the solonoid is bypassed fyi

any help as to why this is, is apreaciated

[Count Grantleyish]

Check the intercooler pipes and clamps?

Failing that, try plug the solenoid and see if it goes to 7psi.

Other than that, I don't have any idea - been a while when I last messing around with GTST.

[mad082]

if you have a spare bit oh hose, try moving where the aftermarket gauge is getting it's reading from. if possible go to before the intercooler

[lachlanw]

most likely failed attempt at bypassing the solenoid

take a picture or tell us wht you have . do you have a hose going straight from the ic pipe to your wastegate

and car is apparently running fine/fast so its most likely not a boost leak

[paulr33]

which model GTST?

auto runs 5psi std and maunal runs 7psi

[JonnoHR31]

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

[paulr33]

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

that is incorrect

as per the nissan service manual

Use the air gun to blow compressed air approx A ~ B kgcm2 into the hose and make sure the swing valve controller rod operates.

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me

[Get EPIC]

I have an ex auto and until i put a bleed valve on it i wasn't getting higher than 6psi.16 psi on my apexi turbo is alot more fun of course! .

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

how do i wire the solonoid? the solonoid is still in there, but not sure what you mean on "wireing" it. im happy with a constant 7psi, but i dont want 5 psi, or even the 2 stage boost thats stock on the r33, constant 7psi for me thanks

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

that is incorrect

as per the nissan service manual

where

HR32 - A = 0.8 and B = 0.9 kgcm2 which is 0.85kgcm2 (average) which is 12.08 psi

BNR32 A = 0.7 and B = 0.8kgmc2 which is 0.75kgcm2 (average) which is 10.66 psi

ECR33 manual is 385mmhg which is 7.4446 psi

ECR33 auto is 270mmhg which is 5.220 psi

BCNR33 A = 0.79kgcm2 and B = 0.85kgc2m which is 0.82kgcm2 (average) which is 11.6 psi

if someone can find ER34/BNR34 please let me

awsome info, but mines a manual :S

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

most likely failed attempt at bypassing the solenoid

take a picture or tell us wht you have . do you have a hose going straight from the ic pipe to your wastegate

and car is apparently running fine/fast so its most likely not a boost leak

ok ill try get one tonight if it isnt dark when i get home

[Birds]

Are you certain your gauge does not read in Bar/KPA, as .5 bar is roughly 7psi...this would explain why you think it's only running 5psi?

If that's not the case, it sounds like the solenoid bypass has been done incorrectly...perhaps try looking at diagrams of it on these forums and then retrying it. Black wire should be earthed (may have come loose) and the other end of it coming from the solenoid should be taped off properly, or you may end up with a permanent 5psi.

[paulr33]

something is wrong, even if you bypass it in correctly, the actuator spring is still 7psi

so no matter what you do, the minimum boost is 7psi before it opens

where are you measuring 5psi from?

what guage? where is the signal coming from? what is the guage displayed as

what mods after the compressor outlet?

ie: poor intercooler? leaking pipework? poor joiners? mangled vac lines? poor boost guage?

[bubba]

Blocked/collapsed cat? when the cat collapsed in my wagon it was causing horrendous boost issues. Swapped out the boost controller, the solenoid, the wiring, put my RB20 actuator on, still couldn't get over 5-7psi.. dropped the exhaust to take it for a spin and found the cat had collapsed.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

something is wrong, even if you bypass it in correctly, the actuator spring is still 7psi

so no matter what you do, the minimum boost is 7psi before it opens

where are you measuring 5psi from? on the front side of the intake manifold (not the rear/cabin side)

what guage? where is the signal coming from? what is the guage displayed as from both asftermarket guage (which is definatly psi not kpa)

what mods after the compressor outlet? stock dump, stock front pipe, 3.5 inch cat back, fmic, stock airbox

ie: poor intercooler? not sure, but if it was leaking wouldnt the psi fluctuate?

leaking pipework? same as above (i have checked all ring clamps are tight)

poor joiners? joiners seem in good nic aka no rips etc

mangled vac lines? which vac lines do you speak of?

poor boost guage? boost guage is a cheapo auto meter or something, looks el cheapo, but the dash boost guage reads similar

[paulr33]

its pretty hard to pick 5psi vs 7psi on the stock guage let alone on an el cheapo

i recommend if you really want to be sure is read the boost pressure at the compressor outlet

you may find its 7psi at the compressor outlet, but after the compressor snout it tails off

you might find poor intercooler which is causing a pressure drop across the core

something doesnt add up, the basics of the GTST give you a 7psi boost