Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what ever you budget for it, double it.

And then add a little bit more :D

Actually, those words were the best advice anyone gave me during my engine rebuild planning. It's easy for things to get away from you a little!

32's Rule that is all.....

But for information as to why they rule

I do agree that the 33 box is stronger, but synchro's still break from "quickshifts" and Rough abuse, not so much from power. My 20 box has had plenty of abuse, and so has ZCR's, and there are plenty of 200kw+ cars still going strong with 20 box's. I don't think a 20 box would last long with 250kw+ but below that its much of a muchness, and as for the diff, 32's may be better but are harder to find LSD centre's and parts, so that would be a negative

Yes the Geometry is very similar but R32 standard came with a much firmer and better shocks which have been known to last over 200,000kms, where as the 33's come with a soft shock and spring as thats what nissan thought people wanted comfort and the shocks only lasted around 50,000 hence why most standard 33's feel really rolly, which most people think their weight or size cause (but it doesn't help)

But the biggest handling gain is the Stiffness of the Chassis compared to the 33, with the 32 having the same stiffness as the 32 GT-R. Its why a 32 gts-t will do the same lap time (to a certain point) of similar power and suspension modded 32 GTR, where as the 33 GTS-T's are always behind the 32 let alone the 33 GTR

and even thoug you can find 34's for 12, I'd say more 14-15000, which is double the price of some 32's. Drop an educated 7k into a 32 and you would have a very fast and fun car

My 32 wieghs in at 1270, ZCR's 1320 with Sunroof

And the weight difference is more noticable in corner speed and braking than power

Another thing 32's tend to get 10-11ltrs per 100k, I know the 34's are better than 33's but I don't know the figure

And 100mm wheelbase difference is quite big, 33 to 32 is the same as 32 to New Mini

Oh and for model specific Bias

R31- Drift GTS

R32- Me :(

R33- Frink

R34- Randon I am

All of us will defend our model to death

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

There's a cheap R32 GTR which have been looked after - only driven about once a month in the past 12 months.

PM sent to OBY.

Hey I had a look. It wouldn't let me send you a PM though, something about not having enough posts. I'd love to come and have a look at it but 16k is out of my price range.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

Your best bet is to buy from an enthusiast who has advertised in the For Sale section of these forums... At least three quarters of people who sell through SAU have looked after their car and are reluctantly selling it.

Hey so I'm better off getting a 32? Will I be able to find one in good nick that isn't going to cause me to many hassles?

If you like the looks, your more of a driver than a poser :thumbsup: and find a good one you will never look back.

Saw these on all Classifieds today:

R32 GTS-T - $11,500, a few mods but this sentence might be a typo - "Boost can be wound up to 22 pounds giving 319kw of power."

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819044

R34 GT-T - $15,500 - looks stock

http://www.allclassifieds.com.au/ac/ac0032?vcid=122819415

319kw from an rb20??? wow, i wouldn't believe that, unless he's adding the extra killerwatts the subs add to it :P

Edit - Subs don't make more power, the 2 massive amps make more power :)

Edited by Randon_I_Am

For a 32GTR?

From what I've seen, I would honestly suggest against a 32GTR. While there is no doubt in anyone's mind that they are an amazing car, as others have said above, you will pay for one. Then, even after you've bought a clean one with little to no issues, you won't stop spending money on it there. Be it something breaks and requires replacing, or you want more from it (don't kid yourself, you WILL), it will cost you.

Talk to Kat about 32GTR's and how much they cost :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...