Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i searched but couldnt find the answers i was looking for

im just about to order the components for the fuel system in my s13,

im going to run a surge tank,

bosch 044

std intake pump as the lift pump

i will be using screw on ProFlow/SpeedFlow screw on fittings onto the surge tank with braided line hose clamped onto the std steel feed, return etc lines.

now i i am unsure what size fuel line i want to run? -6an or -8an?

im looking at making a reliable 400hp/300kw with an rb25det with rb26itb + other supporting mods

i am also not sure what to do in the way of injectors?

get jap-brand sard, power enterprise etc 800-1000cc injectors in a gtr type rail

or go with an aussie style rochester 1000cc and www.injectorsonline.com rail kit?

any help would be greatly appreciated

cheers John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328130-fuel-system/
Share on other sites

no worries mate.

okay. would 2nd hand ones through yahoo japan or even the classifieds on here be my best bet, then get them cleaned flow tested?

any input on what size line to order though? will i be able to clamp -8an onto the standard metal fuel lines?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328130-fuel-system/#findComment-5337541
Share on other sites

You could have a steel -6/8 male fitting welded onto your stock rail.

If your going to all the effort of running a braided line, it might as well be a -8 (1/2").

Or just run the 044 into the stock steel line.

J.

the thing im wondering is there a way to adapt a 1/2" -8 teflon line onto the standard 5/16 -5 standard steel fuel line?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328130-fuel-system/#findComment-5341961
Share on other sites

www.mscn.com.au <- very helpful guys!

1 x 819-05 -6 5/16" 819 Series Tube Sleeve

1 x 818-05 -6 5/16" 818 Series Tube Nut

1 x 815-08-06 -8 -6 Male Flare Reducers - Straight

1 x 201-08-D -8 3/4-16 AN/JIC 200 Series - Straight Hose Ends

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328130-fuel-system/#findComment-5343240
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...