Jump to content
SAU Community

Coilovers Or Spring And Shocks?

cptpugwash
 Share

Recommended Posts

Benn Cizauskas Rookie

Benn Cizauskas

Posted
Posted

I got pedders to do my coilovers for 1600 installed, which seemed fair. They have been BRILLIANT. Not sure where you get bad pedders from but my guys at Slacks Creek are wikkid.

The pedders quote was for $1200, and yeh, i was a bit shocked(no pun intended). But since then i have heard personally and read a few bits aswell about how pedders are a rip off.

I have also contemplated just getting a quote elsewhere, get the shocks done and actually sell my loved r33. I may be in a good position in about 8 months to look at maybe a 96/97 gtr. Truth be told, it was a gtr i wanted to get 6 years ago, but they were all $35,000 or more for a tidy one. Now there are alot around $23-25,000.

So, spend $1500 on suspension?, then look at exhaust, inlet, intercooler?(another $3,000). OR maybe $900, then save my bikkies for a gtr?

WWJD??????

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
I got pedders to do my coilovers for 1600 installed, which seemed fair. They have been BRILLIANT. Not sure where you get bad pedders from but my guys at Slacks Creek are wikkid.

id like to know what u have to compare them with and what actual proof u have to back up those claims, as im yet to see anything but junk come out of pedders

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

Depends what your looking for.

The main advantage of buying an aftermarket coilover kit is the adjustability.

So you can adjust ride hight, whether it be for looks, or to get corner weights correct to balance the car.

Adjustable dampers to adjust for different road surfaces etc.

In all honesty.. unless your looking for the "tunability" out of your suspension.. aftermarket coilover set ups are a waste of money in my opinion.

Otherwise dampers and srpings are sufficient.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
Agree with the first statement, although I reckon they will be shit full stop.

Agree with the second, but Bilsteins are around $1100 a full set and Kings are $300 a full set. So $1400 has you laughing, what's 200 bucks to do it properly?

$1100 for Pedders shocks - you've got to be joking.

I paid around $1300 for my Bilsteins a few months ago from Heasmans with the sydney kid valving. Not sure if that was extra or if its more for an R34. But I got the king springs for $220 so I made some back there hehe

VERY HAPPY

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

having adjustable coilers may sounds really cool, but whenever you change the height wouldnt you need to get an alignment done to sort out the camber change associated with changing the geometry by lowering, right....?

I got a set of brand new bilsteins for $650 delivered and found some 6month old king springs for $150 lowered the car by 25mm roughly, got brand new whiteline F&R adjustable sways ($150 each with linkage) and brand new bushes all round ($60 each front & rear), brand new whiteline pineapples ($40 delivered) and then alignment from Selby, best thing ever...

If your patient you can find bargins here and there, save yourself heaps and get good products too... then install everything yourself, save more money and enjoy the fruits of your labour... Im the bargin finder king...

mattis96 Proficient

mattis96

Posted
Posted
having adjustable coilers may sounds really cool, but whenever you change the height wouldnt you need to get an alignment done to sort out the camber change associated with changing the geometry by lowering, right....?

I got a set of brand new bilsteins for $650 delivered and found some 6month old king springs for $150 lowered the car by 25mm roughly, got brand new whiteline F&R adjustable sways ($150 each with linkage) and brand new bushes all round ($60 each front & rear), brand new whiteline pineapples ($40 delivered) and then alignment from Selby, best thing ever...

If your patient you can find bargins here and there, save yourself heaps and get good products too... then install everything yourself, save more money and enjoy the fruits of your labour... Im the bargin finder king...

hey mate any secrets where you got these prices from? sounds like an awesome deal

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

I watch for sale threads, a bit of ebay and some word of mouth, its definitely just alot of patience, I didnt find all the parts at once, I had to collect them over months and then do installs once I acquire everything I need, but I dont like paying shelf prices...

I recently scored a pretty much brand new ARC airbox with a very good condition filter $440 delivered rrp $700+ delivered, a brand new HKS 2835pros $1600 rrp $2300+ and a R.I.P.S intake plenum for $400...

you just have to search and then wait and then search some more....

  • 3 weeks later...
nakuma Enthusiast

nakuma

Posted
Posted (edited)

sorry to bump and old thread, but does anyone have any advice on some workshops that stock/can order some bilsteins in SE melbourne area?

cheers

(edit) for a good price, of course. looking for around $1000-1200 mark

Edited by nakuma

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...