Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dear All,

I owned a 2008 Honda Civic VTi-L and was a Honda fan, VTEC was my world.

But now im converting to an area I never thought I would enter: Skylines.

Anyway before I can claim the title of being a skyline owner I need to get one first, and here is an infiniti skyline i was thinkin of getting, could anyone let me know if im getting a good deal?

Also, I read a lot about the CVT 8 speed problem and the expensive fluid, anyone know in Sydney where i can buy this fluid? I dont mind paying 1.5k (I do mind, but i don't if it means preserving the life of a gear box that would cost me 20k to repair)...

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...=1&__N=1216

Edited by SCSkyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328383-2003-v35-nissan-skyline-350gt-8/
Share on other sites

It doesn't cost that much to repair, but it does cost more than your average gearbox. Previously, all our customers who had issues with their cvt8 we would just buy 2nd hand units from Japan and replace them.

We now use a mob from waterloo/alexandria to rebuild them. I can't exactly remember the costs involved as I don't deal with accounts, but I do know it does cost thousands, and most of that cost is dismantling and assembling the damn thing. I saw the g/b all apart once and I was gobsmacked on how complicated they really are.

But apart from the cvt8, they are a pleasure to drive. Incredibly torquey, great build quality and you have enough space to fit a family.

Thanks for the advice all...so in Sydney you can get people who specialise with these V35 skylines or infiniti's or whateva? Do they sell the trans fluid?

Cause if i change the fluid and drive the car in a good manner not flogging it then i dont see a reason for changin the gear box till the thing is as old as anything right?

What new skylines are there arent they like 35-40k?

You don't really have much option if your budget is 20k as the V36 Skyline sedans are double that price.

ok then, all im asking is that if i can buy the cvt fluid in sydney or if anyone knows where i can source it cause i plan to change it once that car reaches 85k's

Im up in brisvegas mate.

I spoke to West Point Nissan, Indooroopilly QLD. They can source the fluid from Melbourne @ $772/ 4litres. Not too bad.

I just saw my mechanic this morning about the fluid as he wanted to check that it was burnt or off before I actually comitted $1500.

Checked it out, good as new. Some people may have actually replaced the fluid properly, you never know.

if you're absolutely certain about a car, get your mechanic to check it out, before you purchase.

Of course youd pay for the check and if it;s a drive then fuel costs if the vendor is happy with it, but big thing is just general check to make sure that every thing is going strong.

In sydney, I beleive that UAS @ Silverwater are pretty decent, and theres a place in west ryde, cant remember off the top of my head.

Have a gaze around the V series section, few boys from Sydney there.

A lot of questions have also been answered, so take a look and theyd be able to advise of people who can deal with the car.

Hope my rant was helpful :)

Cheers,

Tony

I actually want to get a 6MT V36 370GT w/ the VQ37VHR and twin turbo it.

I also have a rough idea as to what costs will be, although saving that sort of cash will take some time :)

But, youd be looking at about 450-500HP. With a good driver behind the wheel, 10s are highly possible :):P :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...