Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

100k is coming up soon and will be looking at getting some parts together for the job..

here is a list of what i think i need and if anyone has any ideas please let me know.

car - S2 Stagea RB25 neo auto

timing belt

acc belts

cam seals

crank seals

tensioners plus bolts

water pump

oil

oil filter

change auto gearbox fluid

clean AAC

coolant

car has had new platium plugs and new rotors and pads with R33 calipers.

also when buying stuff is there any difference between R33 rb25 and the neo?

is there anything i have missed?

thanks guys

diffs and coolant flush for SURE

just remember to undo the filler bolts on the diffs b4 the drain... there obviously the higher of the pair.

tyers should be switched around every 5k... front to rears, rear to front. check pressures

check all your lights n usless shit, bit of injector cleaner if your fealing it...

clean the air filter, if its still stock chance it.

top up power stearing, attesa, bleed brakes... check rotors, pads..

general check around of the car... not a bad idea to really degrease everything while your there... just so u can tell down the track if somewherre needs attention,

also a really good idea if you got time...

mix 50-50 kerosine and metho... about 750ml of each should be good...

fill your inter cooler and flush it around... gets so much shit out...

give it a bit to eat threw any shit...

dump it... go again with the other bit in the bottle...

flush with water and let TOTALY TOTALY TOTALY dry!

i did some stuff gradually over the year so the 100k wouldn't put me out so much when it comes :blink:

at about 93k atm.

already done my:

Timing belt and water pump

machined Rotors, and new Pads

gear box service

:P

i suspect i need to do this soon

got a link on how to do it?

Same as GTR!

Remove covers, measure clearence, remove shim and measure, fit desired shim, recheck clearence, refit covers.

Special tool required to compress valve spring so you can remove shim.

Will be speaking with Nissan about available shims soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
×
×
  • Create New...