Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol

easiest way is to get one of these long straight drains from MTQ http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Turbo-A...il-drain/pl.php

then run some oil proof hose down and into thr block return. clamp on either end and sleeve it with heat proof insulation if you wanted.

simple and reliable.

As for your JIC fitting in the oil feed needing a washer.. they are a flare fitting so the seal is created on the flare not omn a washer like banjo bolts.

thanks Simon - I didn't realise you could buy those long oil drain flanges. However mine needs to be at an angle to prevent it hitting the manifold.

anyway I mocked up an oil return pipe at home using some old aircon pipe which was flexible and malleable. I fitted this into my old oil return flange and took it down to the metalworker near me. He's gonna make me the flange and hardpipe as one piece so its probably gonna take a couple of back and to trips to his place for adjustments but at least I dont have to worry about heat wrapping etc, after all that. If I can get it past the manifold then I'll just use some silicon hose to connect it up to the block return.

if this doesn't work I'll have to look into something else but I feel fairly confident it should... famous last words!

@rad32 thats what swayed me mate. I think I should be okay once I wrap the other lines for a bit of added protection. I might make up a shield from some aluminium to cover the turbo too to protect the bonnet from the heat temps.

yeh i got a turbo beanie to help.. then ill use what i have left of my heat wrap to put around some stuff.. might look messy but id rather not burn shit while im on the track..

  • 3 months later...

Just wondering if you guys, or anyone else for that matter who views this, has had problems with lines touching the manifold? I am currently doing my lines, and pretty much all of them are going quite close/touching to the whole manifold/gate/dump area....

  • 4 weeks later...

Just wondering if it matters (for water flow and return), which side of the turbo they actually go into?

Atm if your looking from the exhaust housing at the turbo.....

oil feed at the top

return on the left, flow on the right

Is this correct??

Aiden

Hi, guys

Similar question, so thought i'd be better off hijacking than starting a new thread...

I currently have a KKR turbo, with it's own special oil feed and return lines, and it's not water cooled.

I'm going to go to a GT3076 on stock manifold next week, where should I buy oil and water lines from? I heard going the eBay route was a bad idea? I don't need anything super-amazing, just whatever gets the job done properly :)

Isaac

get some made up at a hose specialist. easiest way is to take in the turbo and something with the same thread as the fittings in the block you need, then explain what you need.

water flow doesnt matter, can go either way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
    • You have a knack for photography my friend. It makes the 86 look like a complete bucket. The 34 went with you to Europe and back. It's special. (we all feel the same about our 'shitboxes' that every bystander seems to absolutely love)
×
×
  • Create New...