Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheel Fitment For R33 Gts-t

conan7772
 Share

Recommended Posts

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted

Just bought a set of 18 9.5 +30 all round.

Fronts hit on full lock on the back web of the UCA.

Fitted a 5mm spacer, now have 3mm clearance with the car still jacked up.

Currently have 7mm clearance with 17 8.5 +35's.

Don't really want to use the spacers, plus sticks out a little too far for my liking.

I'm thinking of grinding away a section of the stiffening web on the upper control arm.

Probably only needs 5mm deep x 15mm long

Q's

Does the rim get closer to the UCA when the car is in motion as the suspension compresses ?

And, am I risking too much with grinding ?

I'm assuming these arms are over engineered 50 %

My main dilemma is: If I go back a size on the rim to (8.5) , the spokes lose the aggressive dish I'm after.

Thoughts please.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329260-wheel-fitment-for-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites
nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

my honest opinion, if its a look thing, push the wheels out with spacers, then stretch some tyres over them, and camber the bitch with some adj uppers.

personally i probably wouldnt have an issue with taking that much out of a UCA, especially if u reinforce it in other ways. those front UCA's are f**king tough, the LCA, cross member, castor rods/bracket, tie rods, will all generally break before ur UCA's

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
yeah the fronts will have 235's on them, quite stretched on a 9.5 rim.

The rims are Rota P45-R's.

What's the go with agro camber?

Do you replace the stock UCA's with adjustable ones?

cheers

u can go a lot more stretch than that.

yeh, adjustable uca's, or lengthened lca's

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
  • Author
Posted

u can go a lot more stretch than that.

yeh, adjustable uca's, or lengthened lca's

I saw another post with an adjustable UCA link. They still retained the arm, but it was GTR.

Who makes these custom control arms or where can you get em?

Not much coming up on internet search.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...