Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market. Given its a Japanese car, I'm gonna say its JDM already!

Other then that, plenty of carbon fibre, some BRIDE seats with full BRIDE interior trim, stretched tires, epic fitment wheels, your well on your way!

Well this is what I have in mind:

Nismo Gear Shifter (Dildo style silver :thumbsup:)

Exhaust/Extractors (Not a cannon tho)

Black Window Tint

Rims

Body Kit (400r or V1 Aero Style)

Cold Air Induction

Bucket seat's/Harnesses But Need Wide Bucket Seats Cause Im a fat bastard

Nismo Smoked Side Indicators

Xenon Head-Light Conversion

White L.E.D Globes Replacing Dash Dials (but i dont want to do it myself, i did it on my previous car and didnt like pulling the cluster apart, it changed the dials)

Thats about it...

But i need part names and brands etc cause i have no idea etc. My car is a white series 2 R33 GTS

is this thread for real??? like seriously am i entering a troll thread?

guys?

help me out here?

are you actually from hiroshima?

im scared.

okay. you dont understand offset, ill try explain. imagine a wheel, there's two parts to the wheel. the "face" and the "rim" (barrel)

say the rim of that wheel is 8 inches wide. the centre of that width is considered a zero offset. meaning it's mounting face offset neither negative nor positive.

if the mounting face moves "inward" it is a negative offset. positive if the mounting face is toward the outer of the rim.

soooooooo a 8in +35 offset, means, the mounting of the face is 4inches into the wheel. but 35mm toward the outer of the wheel.

as for your dumbass "im only 4 stud" arguement. SHUT UP. you want rims? i'll get you rims if you're in australia.

windingseven-img581x600-126633877763n4dy25743.jpg

work VS

18in by 8.5 +19 offset in front

18in by 9.5 +19 offset in rear

with tyres. about $1600 delivered to victoria. so freight to your city may be extra.

dfrph821-img600x450-1278069102rajsy559673.jpg

Work meisters. black. would look GREAT on a white R33.

18in by 8.5 +24 all round

with tyres

about 1600/1700 deliv. to victoria

its very easy to get your car looking "JDM"

your car IS jdm. i don't get you, man...

where are you located? want some rear coilovers? PM me.

EDIT: i'm 4stud. proud of it, too!

zzcefiro1.jpg

Edited by Mr Eps

Juz, I'm running 18x9 with +26 offset. A bigger offset would mean that the wheel sits further inside the car; as it is, running 255/35/18's, I have the possibility of scrubbage on a big dip, so +36 would be better as the tyre sits more under the car, and away from the lip.

I suggest GTR skirts and rear pods, cause they're sleek and subtle, and as for front bar, nothing too ostentatious. I originally had the GTR bar, but now running Top Secret... You know how it looks :thumbsup:

Bronze would be good... I'd stick with 5 or 6 spoke, I do quite like the RSGT's from Ozzy Tyres though...

http://www.ozzytyres.com.au/Content_Common...47CAA7&pg=6

In the middle there. I rang a bit ago for someone I know; for a set of 18's, they're after $1800 or so including (shitty) tyres. To do that, you'd need to do the stud conversion from 4 to 5 stud.

A few of those other things on your list I've got; if you want I'll take some photos on the weekend and shoot them your way.

Edit::

Shhhh, Eps. Shhhh *pats* He's a youngin, so he's still learning :ph34r:

I reckon...

- For wheels look at wheels by XXR, Axis eg. XXR 002.. 4 stud, come in good offset, are wide etc.. make for a tough stance and are pretty cheap and come in good colours eg Black/Silver Lip.

- If you have the stock bodykit on your S2, leave it... nothing is more stupid then a over done bodykit on a non turbo skyline eg 400r / GTR/ whatever, it looks ricey.

- Clear Side / Front Indicators.

- Lowered.

- Extractors + 2.5" Exhaust, Oval Muffler Rear.

- Cheap Metal Intake pipe + fully sealed airbox + 3a pod filter OR just have a high flow panel in stock box not much dif.

- Drift Lip spoiler.

- Black/White Colour scheme of things.

- Debadge.

haha no i just don't get it cos the thread starter has been around for a while he's made some GREAT posts i serioulsy thought he was joking!!!

i say don't do body mods. it's a waste of time on a GTS (no offence) same with engine mods. maybe get a NEAT chrome exhaust tip to freshen it up. MAYBE get a black boot lip. nothing else. you're never going to make a GTS go fast, so don't waste your time! (sorry!)

get SWEET coilovers. lower your stance. get wheels. these are things that will ADD value to the car really.. (or at least stop depreciation!)

as for bobjane / ozzy / drifteks / tempe. XXR / SPORTMAX / chinese shit PLEASE STOP THE COPY. get genuine wheels. or you'll be buying another set in a few months time (that's my opinion) japanese companies spend millions of yen and time developing and designing their own wheels which are quality, and rare. every time a cast iron chinese rim gets bought over the counter - it's extra stress on the industry who INVENT and create. Ueno's business (Vertex) suffers terribly because of these people and he designed the parts and manufactured them in the shop that he opened!!! so please.... don't go copy rims.

get the special ones :nyaanyaa:

CPD

onto you - why do you want new headlights? have you tried a re-condition? if you REALLY need new headlights (as in you've tried everything to get them looking nice there's a REALLY nice pair i can show you... i'll PM you the link

actually - i'll just post it here in case you aren't good with computers :)

CLICK THIS LINK

Edited by Mr Eps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...