Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all quick question had my exhaust checked out as it was hanging a little low, and realised i had a a full kakimoto exhaust haha only bought the car at the end of feb ;) so score.

My question to you all is what size cat should i run as it still has the compliance cat on it :( , the size of the exhaust is about 3.5 inches so i was thinking 3.5 or would a 3inch cat be alright??

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/
Share on other sites

what size is the exhaust?

Bit surprised you didnt notice... given the fact it would be signifigantly louder than factory...

The Kakimoto exhaust is actually really quiet most people are surprised that it is that quiet, i knew it had the catback but wasnt sure on the front pipes and yesterday i confirmed it.

It looks to be around 3.5 inches

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5360801
Share on other sites

The Kakimoto exhaust is actually really quiet most people are surprised that it is that quiet, i knew it had the catback but wasnt sure on the front pipes and yesterday i confirmed it.

It looks to be around 3.5 inches

I suggest you have a good look and measure :)

3.5" exhaust = 4" cat min

3" exhaust = 3.5" cat min (although i would still use a 4")

You can get 4.5" items IIRC but i dont think you need to go that large

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361008
Share on other sites

I suggest you have a good look and measure :)

3.5" exhaust = 4" cat min

3" exhaust = 3.5" cat min (although i would still use a 4")

You can get 4.5" items IIRC but i dont think you need to go that large

ill have a good look and measure hopefully tomorrow

then start shopping around :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361219
Share on other sites

Would it matter if you use say a 3.5" cat with a 3" cat back? Wouldn't the exhaust gas going from 3.5" and hitting the 3" flange be a restriction?

No because have a look @ a CAT

It’s a honeycomb, there is no way its going to flow as much as an unimpeded straight piece of pipe not matter what the manufacturers “claim” they flow, so hence I’ve always been a firm believer of 3.5” at a minimum, preferably 4” if you can.

All you do is weld 3” flanges to it and have it taper to 3.5” or 4”, pretty common stuff and any exhaust shop will be able to do it.

The CAT poses a big restriction if you are making reasonable power.

Even with only 280rwkw currently and a 3.5” exhaust… I can tell if I have my 4” CATCO “Hi-Flow” CAT in the car, is just a straight 3.5” pipe of pipe.

It’s not major, but you can feel the difference so there is at least some minor restriction even @ what I would call mild power levels by todays standards.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361308
Share on other sites

I suggest you have a good look and measure :D

3.5" exhaust = 4" cat min

3" exhaust = 3.5" cat min (although i would still use a 4")

You can get 4.5" items IIRC but i dont think you need to go that large

Ash, this info is a little misleading, could you please clarify.

Someone may interpret this info as the flange size. The ID of flanges should never step down in line of flow. IE having a 4" flanged cat meet a 3.5" flange on a catback is bound to cause turbulence issues.

From experience, a cat with 75mm ID meeting a 80mm front pipe on a fairly typical SR setup held back power by roughly 50rwkw. FYI gutting the cat did not help either, yet sure enough replacing with an 80mm cat to match fixed everything.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361381
Share on other sites

3in 100 cell will flow upto 250-280rwkw

3.5in 100 cell will flow upto 300-330rwkw

4in 100 cell will flow 360-400rwkw

5in 100 cell will flow around 500rwkw

if you double the cell count you knock off about 25% of the previous figures. Most 100 and even 200 cell cats won't meet euro4 emmissions. For that you need at least 400cell. Hence why c63 amg have twin 7in cats to make the poer they do and still meet emmissions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361568
Share on other sites

Im currently running one of the Loboka 100cpsi fleabay cats. They slip on to a 3 inch pipe, have a 4 inch body and seem to flow quite well, just got 245awkw at RE with one fitted last night. At $150 its a bargain I think. Any larger than a 4 inch body and you will most likely have ground clearance issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361602
Share on other sites

IMO I'd be running whatever cat flows the same as the rest of your exhaust.

You have a 3.5 inch exhaust .....so 3.5 inch flanged 100cpi cat with 5 inch body might be the go.

CES sell this spec.....Ballistic cats can also be had in this spec off the shelf:

http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/cc.htm

Currently in the process of fitting the CES cat and it looks like a quality item as you would expect.....the honeycomb in my Metal Cat collapsed and wedged itself at the back of the cat body.

Edited by juggernaut1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361766
Share on other sites

I'm assuming the 200 cell cats flow more than the 100 cell?

I've got a 3" xforce high flow on mine atm, and was thinking of changing it to a 3" catco metalcat, flows up to 709cfm. Only stickiNg with the 3" cat cos my hks cat back is also 3".

Anyone tried this cat before?

Edited by SiR_RB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5361890
Share on other sites

I suggest you have a good look and measure :P

Meaured quickly today looks to be just under 3.5inch

Ah k thanks ! Who sells 100 cell cats with the skyline flanges already welded on? All complete bolt on cats that I've come across are 200cell

I know just jap sell the 3" catco cats at a really good price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5362088
Share on other sites

Ash, this info is a little misleading, could you please clarify.

Someone may interpret this info as the flange size. The ID of flanges should never step down in line of flow. IE having a 4" flanged cat meet a 3.5" flange on a catback is bound to cause turbulence issues.

From experience, a cat with 75mm ID meeting a 80mm front pipe on a fairly typical SR setup held back power by roughly 50rwkw. FYI gutting the cat did not help either, yet sure enough replacing with an 80mm cat to match fixed everything.

Ah ye sorry - brain non functional moment :P

Taper upto the flange rather than down... NFI what i was thinking :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329981-cat-size/#findComment-5362209
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...