Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I might have worked it out myself... the smaller turbo on a larger motor will just have to work harder to produce X amount of boost for that engine. And the turbo is rated on HP. So in theory with a large enough wastegate it shouldn't be an exhaust restriction running a smaller turbo, and running 4psi boost should be safe... but then at higher revs out of the map, the boost will go down? ugh, wanting to put an RB20 turbo onto a falcon 4L since it's T3 flanged and $100. Will upgrade it later after I spend the rest of the money getting the rest of the kit.

the rb20 turbo is too small for the 4L

the housing will choke the car and probably make it run like ass

the XR6T barra engine has a GT35R turbocharger on it and the housing is massive 1.06a/r

putting a tiny GT25 with a 0.50a/r will just choke up the engine and youll see instane EGTs when its on boost

exhaust pressure will be off the planet as well

I think the reason for wanting to go that way was quick spool and I make more use of the falcon's low down torque than I do revs. Also it has a T3 flange so after I spent the time making the manifold and running IC piping and such I could upgrade to a larger one. Wouldn't the wastegate correctly sized vent that exhaust pressure away from the turbo though?

That's why I asked the question in regards to the compressor housing and how it relates to cfm/intake amount. Cheapest turbo I could find for this sucker would be about $500 used for a Garrett or cheap China.

adriano is spot on

wastegate internal, external, twin whatever you like

the housing is too small

you are trying to basically run fire hose pressure through a std garden hose

it wont work and will just crap itself

Thanks for the help. Might just leave it until I can afford a larger turbo. I pretty much have 10% more than the amount for everything I need including pricing on a cheap used turbo, but a $1000 new one is out of my range right at the moment. I really don't want to go with a chinese turbo for $500 because I have read many hours on the net of them being crap and falling apart. However at the same time have seen so many setups with the Monsta turbos which are chinese too, all the same I guess. I know the Chinese have different metal gradings, and standards etc, but in subwoofers that doesn't matter as much as it does with a turbo bolted to my precious engine!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...