Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey my climate control in my r33 hot and cold adjustment doesnt seem to be working anymore... :|

it did use to work.. lol

it seem to blowing hot air all the time even when set to 18 degrees

it still blows hot air with a/c on and with changing the fan speed.

any ideas were to start?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330353-r33-climate-control-issue/
Share on other sites

hose has come off behind the dash or the plug fell out. To the left of the steering where theres a little vent on the dash, theres rubber hose that connects to it and a small plug with a resitor in the end of it. The AC uses this to work out what tempreature it is inside the cabin. without it it just defaults to full hot.

Pull your dash out and check that there both pluged in.

Jack

hose has come off behind the dash or the plug fell out. To the left of the steering where theres a little vent on the dash, theres rubber hose that connects to it and a small plug with a resitor in the end of it. The AC uses this to work out what tempreature it is inside the cabin. without it it just defaults to full hot.

Pull your dash out and check that there both pluged in.

Jack

+1

I had this exact issue once when I pulled my dash out and forgot to plug the sensor back in... full hot all the time :(

but i havent touch or pulled anythin out of the dash....

so i dont c how it came out or undone.. :blink:

i noticed last nite, i turn it the air on straight away..and set it to 18 degree,

and even after my temperature went to normal,

and i adjust the the temp to 32 degrees it felt lik 18 degree still...

so i actually think that the hot/cold buttons...

well what that goes to is jamming and is not working properly....

is ther a servo/motor that i can check out, and if so wer is it? lol

  • 5 months later...

bumb...

i found this...of another topic..

"Given you just had work done done on the car I'd say the ambient sensor is unpluged ( it should be the little black lump next to the horns, behind front bumper).

Like GTScotT said its a common thing, mechanic forgets sensor, A/C thinks the outside temp is -40C or something and fires up the heater 4 ya

There are 2 other sensors, one at the back of the dash ,left side (sunLoad) and one just to the left of the steering columb (interior temp).

Any of these left unpluged/faulty will screw up ya AirCon (usually with the heat your gettn) "

"have a search on SAU for heater threads you should find plenty of info on the heater. being a 33 owner I'm not familiar with the 34 BUT if ya stick ya head under the glove box and hit the 'recircualte air' button, you should see a 'rod and lever' arangement mo0ving, thats the cowl door. Same goes 4 the heater cores tap, change the temp and something will move to direct the water flow.

like I said though do a search. I'm sure I've seen full removal guides and all. "

but i havent touch or pulled anythin out of the dash....

so i dont c how it came out or undone.. :blink:

i noticed last nite, i turn it the air on straight away..and set it to 18 degree,

and even after my temperature went to normal,

and i adjust the the temp to 32 degrees it felt lik 18 degree still...

so i actually think that the hot/cold buttons...

well what that goes to is jamming and is not working properly....

is ther a servo/motor that i can check out, and if so wer is it? lol

bump..

did you look at the ambient air temp sensor? or the cabin air temp sensor?

Check these, doesnt matter if you havent been doing anything to those areas, things happen, wires come loose or go bad. Just check.

Search for Air-Con diagnostic mode. Its on here some where but im lazy to find it. You hold down a button when you turn the ignition on and you can see which sensors etc arnt working

Otherwise check the hot/cold blend servo to see if its stuck or broken.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...