Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. dont really know if this is the path i wanna take but just throwing it out there to see if there are any takers/interests. i have built this car from pretty much ground up doing pretty much everything to this car myself other than tune it. I dont really wanna sell it as soooooo much hard work has gone into it, but i need to sort some other things out and have a wedding to pay for! just sorta throwing it out there atm to see if its worth selling. anyways here is a list of things done

ENGINE BAY/DRIVELINE:

RB25det

ROSS forged pistons

ARGO "MASSIVE" rods

ARP main's, conrods, head studs

head full recon

brand new nissan rb25 oil pump

all nissan seals/gaskets

ACL metal head gasket

ROLLMASTER adjustable cam gears

GARRETT GT3076 turbo

6boost exhaust manifold

greddy inlet manifold (copy only)

50mm external gate

Custom tubular upper rad support

Alloy radiator with AU thermo fans

BTR alloy overflow

BTR alloy oil catch can

GREX/TRUST oil relocation/cooler kit with thermostat

ORC twin plate clutch

RB25DET geabox

custom tailshaft

locked 4.3 diff

SUSPENSION:

Near new ISC coilvers (bought june ish last year. only done 5 or 6 mallala days from brand new)

SPL caster rods, traction arms, camber arms, toe arms

IKEYA FORMULA tie rods not installed but will come with the car

INTERIOR:

Custom dash with VDO 200kph, fuel, water temp gauge's

oil temp, oil pressure and boost gauge's in stereo position.

Monster tacho

OMP fixed back seat

Padded bolt in half cage

EXTERIOR:

Custom Purple paint

VIVA full kit

VIVA vented bonnet

VIVA boot lip/duck tail

GRAMLIGHT pro57's titanium lip 17x9's all round

J's headlights

Fuel system:

Walbro in tank pump

custom surge tank

bosch 044 external engine feed pump

95% of the wiring has been hidden, only thing left to do was to re-locate fuse box and all wiring to it.

last tune made 260rwkw on 13psi running E10 100 octane pump fuel

im looking at offers around $16k. i know some ppl are gonna say im dreaming on the cash but if i dont get what i want then its not worth me selling it. so no time wasters or bullshit posts pls! GENUINE interests only

contact me on 0413595838 or via pm

post-19058-1280135935_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280135972_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136718_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136785_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136801_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136830_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136853_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136883_thumb.jpg

post-19058-1280136900_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330422-s13-track-car/
Share on other sites

nah man, will turn it back into a street car before i thought about pulling it apart!!!

You might have better luck selling it for more after turning it back into a streeter.... GL with the sale any way, f**king love gram lights. Win.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330422-s13-track-car/#findComment-5376107
Share on other sites

if anyone else whats to know details on engine (other than you beej who has no interest in the car) call morpowa and ask for Josh as he is the one that built motor... motor has prob only done about 10 drift days roughly???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330422-s13-track-car/#findComment-5385269
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...