Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Since when is an ae86 cheap, i looked at ones being imported and they were about 10k or more!!!

Doesnt look like a cheap car to me.

The rarity and cult following of these cars in japan means high prices and many drifted and dinged examples around.

Go the mx5 or r31 then save $$ and drop an rb25 in it.

Buy one already in Australia. They go for around $5000 (known as the Trueno).

Well... My thoughts are an R31 Skyline... Non turbo one..

rear wheel drive, you can make them loko nice, they hardly ever break down, Not too much power for a first car...

My first Car was an R30, Learnt to drift in it, Plenty of fun.. Then I bought a 2 Tonne Pimp machine ... ha, I even drifted that once... but that was a tad scarey....

Early skylines are good, Or early Toyotas.. Cause they are cheap, and if you thrash them they won't break to quick or go too fast for you to handle...

And if you crash in a gutter, they can be fixed.. Just don't hit a tree, Your spinal cord can't be fixed...

Advice, practise in the rain on a closed off or safe road if you want to learn drift....

i always wanted a rx3 or ta22 celica for my first car, cheap, rwd, 2 door, tuff looking, but then i knew i was gonna work it and spend well ova 20K on top at the minimum, and things like no p/s, electrics, no AC changed my mind, so i bought my s14a and began modding that, it depends wat u like, but if u dont wanna car thats too fast but still fun, NA silvia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...