Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Since when is an ae86 cheap, i looked at ones being imported and they were about 10k or more!!!

Doesnt look like a cheap car to me.

The rarity and cult following of these cars in japan means high prices and many drifted and dinged examples around.

Go the mx5 or r31 then save $$ and drop an rb25 in it.

Buy one already in Australia. They go for around $5000 (known as the Trueno).

Well... My thoughts are an R31 Skyline... Non turbo one..

rear wheel drive, you can make them loko nice, they hardly ever break down, Not too much power for a first car...

My first Car was an R30, Learnt to drift in it, Plenty of fun.. Then I bought a 2 Tonne Pimp machine ... ha, I even drifted that once... but that was a tad scarey....

Early skylines are good, Or early Toyotas.. Cause they are cheap, and if you thrash them they won't break to quick or go too fast for you to handle...

And if you crash in a gutter, they can be fixed.. Just don't hit a tree, Your spinal cord can't be fixed...

Advice, practise in the rain on a closed off or safe road if you want to learn drift....

i always wanted a rx3 or ta22 celica for my first car, cheap, rwd, 2 door, tuff looking, but then i knew i was gonna work it and spend well ova 20K on top at the minimum, and things like no p/s, electrics, no AC changed my mind, so i bought my s14a and began modding that, it depends wat u like, but if u dont wanna car thats too fast but still fun, NA silvia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...