Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 2001 Gtt Write Off - Every Working Part For Sale *pics*!

khuss88
 Share

Recommended Posts

khuss88 Contributor

khuss88

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Guys ,

I am located in tullamarine Melbourne. I recently wrote of my Black R34 2001 GTT Series II and I was not insured so im therefore stripping the car for parts to get whatever I can back. At the moment only a few parts in the car have been stripped (shown in the list below) . The damage is pretty bad as you can see from the pics but the engine seems to be undamaged and the whole back end is also in perfect condition. There is a range of parts still on the car , Im not to good with the mechanical stuff so if you come strip it yourself Ill do things cheaper. I'm also open to an offer for someone to come take whatever is left of the car which includes the turbo, engine + a range of other mechanical parts, rear brakes (front are sold) , suspension, windscreens etc. Open to any reasonable offer keeping in mind the 2001 model is very rare and the car was very clean , I was only driver in Australia and only drove it for about 6 months (engine done 120,000km). rare I will also post interstate via cash on delivery or courier if needed. CALL OR TEXT ME ANYTIME ON 0423809544 FOR ANY QUOTES QUESTIONS PRICES OFFERS ETC ..

Some pics of the car as a whole:

post-75291-1280232955_thumb.jpg

post-75291-1280233032_thumb.jpg

post-75291-1280233115_thumb.jpg TURBO

The parts for sale that are off the car and ready to sell are:

1. Rear bar - excellent condition - $400

post-75291-1280231217_thumb.jpg

2. Rear lights - $400

post-75291-1280231356_thumb.jpg

3. Front Pair of Xenon lights - $500 SOLD

4. Stock intercooler + piping and box - $100 SOLD

5. Front bar with reo and foghlights - (small dint) - $450

post-75291-1280231595_thumb.jpg

6. Complete drivers side door with mirror power windows and all - excellent cond just needs a good wipe- $500

post-75291-1280232176_thumb.jpg

post-75291-1280232260_thumb.jpg

7. Complete boot (with trims) + spoiler - $500 (also sell separate boot $300 spoiler $200)

8. Front headrests - $80

9. Cd Stacker $70 (also have a pioneer japanese dvd navigation unit that came in the car from japan for sale)

CALL OR TEXT ME ANYTIME ON 0423809544

Edited by khuss88
lidz Community Regular

lidz

Posted
Posted
hopefully u came out of that alright looks pretty bad =S and hopefully ya had no passengers

Unbelievably he had a passenger & they both walked away with only a little bruising!

I went in & picked up the front brakes the other day, seller was a top guy, really helpful.

khuss88 Contributor

khuss88

Posted
  • Author
Posted

replies:

front seats are wrecked back ones are fine

steering wheel seems fine but buyer has to come remove themself

wheels are sold

car was auto not manual

i got the ashtray pm sent

anyone need nethn else ??

cheers guys

khuss88 Contributor

khuss88

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hi mate... still got the stock steering wheel with airbag? did the air bag go off?

let me know

cheers mate

Yeh i do , its still on the car , got no idea how to take it off and no the airbag didnt go off

the wheel spins fine so pretty sure its still usable , heres a pic :

post-75291-1280418953_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Not a problem at all Lithium, I appreciate your help regardless. I've pulled a small part of a log where the target pressure was 28psi and it spiked to 36.4psi. I've only just begun using Data Log Viewer so if I'm sending this in the wrong format let me know.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • The Mafia
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By The Mafia · Posted

      My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
×
×
  • Create New...