Jump to content
SAU Community

Powder Coating Rims + Retain Stickers

Brandon

By Brandon,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted

After putting the Nismo pads on, the brake dust on the front wheels are just ridiculous (someone told me it might be just bedding in to the rotors). Having white rims doesnt help so... I'm thinking of powder-coating my LMGT4 to black but I'd like to retain the genuine Rays' sticker on them. Is that possible? I know powder coating is around 80-100 per rim? But the sand blasting would rip the shit out of the stickers...

Or maybe someone knows somebody that wanna swap a set of black TE37/LMGT4 in 18s with me? Recommendations for powder coating shops around Brisbane or advices are all welcomed. Cheers.

PS: I'm not concern over the Nismo sticker because they can be replaced.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331021-powder-coating-rims-retain-stickers/
Share on other sites
Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
  • Author
Posted
May be able to heat the stickers then lift them off and somehow apply them again?? Would be a very fragile and difficult job, but that's the only way i can see if you want to retain the originals.

Nah I'll just live with it if it cant be done (which I sort know but just wanna confirm).

Seems highly unlikely. And pointless.

Its not pointless. This is not the Nismo sticker on the spokes but the manufacturer's sticker with details of the rims on the inside. Thats the easiest way to tell if the rims are genuine Rays.

you do realise powdercoating is baked in an oven, and the rim must be sandblasted beforehand. just find new stickers. a place at sumner park does them 65 a rim minus sandlbasting charge.

Yes I do. Thanks for the recommendation too.

Isola Grand Master

Isola

Posted
Posted (edited)
Its not pointless. This is not the Nismo sticker on the spokes but the manufacturer's sticker with details of the rims on the inside. Thats the easiest way to tell if the rims are genuine Rays.

:):D :D

Take one of your wheels off and look at the back between the lugs. They'll be stamped if they're genuine. If it was as simple as putting stickers on it there would be a hell of a lot of copies out there already posing as fakes...

Actually... if yours only have stickers and no stamps... :D

It'll look like this if they're real

DSCF0740.jpg

and if they're fake then you don't need to worry about stickers :D

Edited by Isola
astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
Did I not say the easiest? You'll have to pull the wheels out to see that stamp whereas the sticker is visible without doing anything.

1 thing man -

Doesn't the sticker/markings whatever, only mean something upon the sale of the rims? - like to prove to the buyer that they are legit..

I'm not buying any rims that i cant take off the car before I pay..

go to the joint Dave recommended :)

OR buy some rota GTR-D 18*12s in black :D

Isola Grand Master

Isola

Posted
Posted
Did I not say the easiest? You'll have to pull the wheels out to see that stamp whereas the sticker is visible without doing anything.

:D Fancy some cheese?

You're wrong anyway. The easiest way to tell if they're genuine is to LOOK AT THE STAMP. Looking at the sticker is just the easiest way to see if it has a sticker on it. Anyone can make up a sticker and bang it on. I could sew an Armani label inside my jacket, but it still won't be one. Get it?

The car is 8 inches off the ground anyway - turn the wheel and use a torch or a torch and mirror if you have to.But really, if you can't have a wheel off and back on again in 5 minutes there's something terribly wrong.

t5iv Grand Master

t5iv

Posted
Posted
:) Fancy some cheese?

You're wrong anyway. The easiest way to tell if they're genuine is to LOOK AT THE STAMP. Looking at the sticker is just the easiest way to see if it has a sticker on it. Anyone can make up a sticker and bang it on. I could sew an Armani label inside my jacket, but it still won't be one. Get it?

The car is 8 inches off the ground anyway - turn the wheel and use a torch or a torch and mirror if you have to.But really, if you can't have a wheel off and back on again in 5 minutes there's something terribly wrong.

And there is nothing wrong with that!

Nee-san Grand Master

Nee-san

Posted
Posted
you do realise powdercoating is baked in an oven, and the rim must be sandblasted beforehand. just find new stickers. a place at sumner park does them 65 a rim minus sandlbasting charge.

Can said place also straighten wheels and repair gutter rash ?

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...