Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a Rb 25 turbo I am going to put onto my RB 20 DET. I have seen many aftermarket turbos. In the old posts, the 2530 is talked about a lot.

Which turbo will be good for me if I want 300 plus horse power, and is good for a daily driver with good mid range but can get up and go if I want it to?

Help please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331100-turbos-turbos-so-many-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

a neo turbo on a rb20det with frount mount and exhaust stock ecu untuned will make 200kw at the hubs at 11 psi with the injectors on the limit . your stock injectors wont do 300 hp (maybe with lots of pressure ). slap some gtr ones in . so maybe look into that .

depends on budget and future goals

Speak to a professional like Yavus at UNIGROUP, there are 11ty GAZILLION ways to go, but really only one right way.

Make sure you know what you want from your car first though, budget-lotsa $$$$$-power-response-street-circuit-drags

Look at the RB20 dyno thread. From there work out a power goal that is reasonable for your budget.

If you have $4000 and want response but reasonable power go an HKS2530.

As an example I aimed for approx 220rwkw and bought the following. I fell short at 215rwkw but I have a very old engine.

In that case your looking at:

$1000-$1400ish for turbo/lines/HKS actuator

$300 for GTR injectors + clean and flow test

$240 for a Bosch 040 fuel pump

$500 for Just Jap FMIC

$60 for resistor pack

$40 for Turbotech boost controller

$250 for Z32 AFM

$1200 for Power FC

$800 for tune(depending where you live)

If you just want something cheap but less than 200kw you can pretty much get away with buying an RB25 turbo and chucking it straight on with a boost controller.

A dyno will not tell you how good or bad your response is, My dyno graph from 2 yrs ago was a nice smooth line up to 260kw which looked great but was as laggy as 10 laggy things, in the real world a dyno reading isn't the road, you need something from 1 st to top gear running up from idle to get a good reading of what is really happening .

Have a look in HPI no 124 page 81, excellent write up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...