Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About a year ago I had my last compression test, with all cylinders between 9.4 and 9.6 bar. I was told these are decent numbers for a 14 year old RB25DET. However, on a differenent forum I stumbled upon a topic where compression was talked about, and several people agreed that the 9bar compression on the engine in question was to low.

So, what gives? Is the compression I have to low, or not?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331102-is-my-compression-to-low/
Share on other sites

it does sound just a touch low to me, but generally as long as the compression across cylinders is relatively even i wouldnt worry about it. when it starts burning oil or you get compression variances of more than 10 or 15 psi between cylinders then i would start thinking about a rebuild.

do you know if the heads ever been off before?

it does sound just a touch low to me, but generally as long as the compression across cylinders is relatively even i wouldnt worry about it. when it starts burning oil or you get compression variances of more than 10 or 15 psi between cylinders then i would start thinking about a rebuild.

do you know if the heads ever been off before?

AFAIK the head has never come off, but I have no history of the car in Japan.

To the person that PM'ed me, thanks for the help/info! I can't send PMs untill I have a postcount of ten, wanted to say thanks through here. :D

After a bit of chatting, and the friendly PM I recieved earlier, as long as the engine drives properly, both on boost and off boost and doesn't use oil or anything, I should be fine.

And other then a lowish compression, the engine is spot on and doesn't miss a beat. I'll try and get a leakdown test done soon, see if that says anything.

did a comp test on my rb25det 5 years ago and got 120psi each although never missed a beat apart from burning a litle bit of oil. thought something was up as manual says rebuild at 135ish psi yet i was making plenty of power. just opened it up and found melted piston and all rings rooted. i guess it shows how well these engines perform even when not in tip top condition

Well, I decided that it's probably the best thing to start saving up some parts for a little rebuild. Nothing fancy, just OEM or slightly updated parts. I don't want a full forged rebuild, since that's gonna cost a lot, and I'll never reap the benefits of a forged engine, since I'll never go above a stage1 tune. I want a car to get me to work, which I can take to a driftday every now and then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...