Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi need some clarification, the last two events I’ve attended, scrutineering mentioned that my extinguisher needs to be bolted to the car - currently metal bracket is secured with self tapping screws.

I’ve looked in the CAMS schedules to get guidance on the actual required fixing and it didn’t mention anything this specific, just the number of Gs it’s meant to be able to handle. Obviously don’t what to drive in to a tree to see if the extinguisher stays in place.

Can anyone point me to the exact regulation so I can sort it out before the next event.

Sorry if you’ve already read in this in the vic events section, but I was informed it was probably the wrong forum and wasn’t sure how to move it.

Regards

JP

schedule H is the fire extinguisher rules

http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_H_Q310.pdf

1.1 Hand-held fire extinguishers:

(i) must remain restrained under an acceleration of 25G;

(ii) must be capable of removal by the driver (or crew, where applicable) without the aid of tools.

(iii) must be inspected by scrutineers at least once every six months, or otherwise prior to competition. This

involves visually checking the unit and its mountings for damage, checking the pressure of the contents, and

shaking the container to check for settling of the extinguishant. Where practical the extinguisher should be

weighed.

simply, the scruitineer is saying that they don't beleive a self tapper will meet requirement (i).

is there some reason you can't drill right through where you have the self tappers and use a bolt with large washers to hold it instead?

25G might be hard to quantify but assuming your extinguisher is a 1kg capacity, its gross weight will be just over 2kg which means you should be able to hang 50kg on the mount. I would not trust 50kg on a couple of self tappers!

As Duncan says, drill the holes out a bit larger and put a bolt through them with washers. Then it's not going anywhere!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...