Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a C34 for about 3-4 years, and absolutely loved it! Having said that, i would not buy another one, because the M35 ARX 4 is heaps more car for not much more money, so when I ge the missus drunk enough to sign the loan application (very hard given we pretty much don't drink...) my heart will be telling me to buy an M35, despite my head knowing i need to be able to tow/collect wood/camp etc....

Why don't you drive one of each here in Aus to make a decision?

R34 GTT Sedan Manual gets my vote.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12006EE025D0 (nice mods)

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12006EE025D0 nice dark blue stockie - fresh import

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12006EE025D0 Also on SAU. This is my pick, it looks simply gorgeous.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12006EE025D0 Cheap with some small mods.

the Auction sheet says there is no warranty or claim and there is no gureantee its running or working in anyway. bassically as-is buyer must personaly inspect it.

as general rule those cars do have major Issues ussuly with engine or transmission.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The price of every automatic S2 stagea in japan has suddenly doubled
    • thanks mate, one of the reasons I even bought it to be fair.
    • I found parts on EFI Solutions webshop that seemed to be the accurate ones. I haven't gotten around to fitting the turbos back on the car yet since I still have to deal with the shitty crack in the engine block. But I'm confident that the bolts I ordered will fit. According to EFI they are also 7-16/24. The reason M11x1 got involved here is because it is apparently very similar to 7-16/24.
    • Well, to be fair to the car I've driven it daily for almost a decade now, although in that time only put on 50k, as it just recently passed 100k miles early this year. For the most part its been fine because I've been able to source parts from AUS like jacks jdm and a few places in Japan, some things like pads have been easy since 300z pads swap right in... I realize its probably at that time in its life i should find a new DD (but I rent and only have so much space, no garage) so new cars just complicate things. As it is older though, I recognize its about that time as with my '67 GTO to maybe side step and find an alternative, but if i can keep driving it... I want to.   That said, I may just look into a local shop that might be able to, problem is the mechanic I work with has limited space as a mom and pop operation, and he's a busy busy man, so id need to find out if he can keep the car in the meantime, which may or may not be practical for him. Maybe I'll just buy one off jacks jdm and get that refurbed /shrug.. just looking at options and what others may have to offer for advice on the matter. Like I said, its hard finding people around here who actually have one, I've had mine 9 and a half years and I've met 3 others, and they are all military, one was oem from 95 with 30k miles (rip that car... guy got hit after someone crossed s double yellow, totaled it)
    • I've noticed my rear springs sag a bit compared to the fronts. I have stock springs and KYB struts. The front wheels are pretty consistent in their ride height, but compared to the front wheels, one of the rears sits 20mm lower, and the other 40mm lower. This negatively affects the ground clearance, and also angles the headlights up. What are some some economical options for new springs? Or information like good spring rates, lengths  in order to find a suitable replacement etc Far from lowering the car, I'd prefer to raise it a bit to keep it ground clearance friendly.
×
×
  • Create New...