Jump to content
SAU Community

Using Test Light

SDUCTV33

By SDUCTV33,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted

i vote get a experienced alarm fitter to do the job for u. from the sound of ur post ur just going to be wasting ur time trying to fit it.

and nobody here will be able to help u to set it up because of the risk a thief well see.

but any way a testlight is a wast of money and time. all it shows is if there is power or not. what u need is a good multi-meter +$15 and install instructions and wiring diagrams i dont think u will find any.

but i still stand by my first statement. get a experienced alarm fitter.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)
test light + yellow harness = fun :laugh:

multimeter my friend OR get your wallet out and pay someone.

I worked in a high end shop in USA and one of the other seasoned installer's torched a ECU for a 959 Porsche with 0 miles on it, funny enough it controlled everything and cost a boat load to replace.all from the use of a 2 buck "test light" to try to interface with a after market alarm...... lets say he didn't get a paycheck for a month to cover it.

Edited by sapphiregraphics
cavell Enthusiast

cavell

Posted
Posted

lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)
two words troy - FLUKE 78. (or a DSO depending on what I am chasing.)

wanna see my fluke.. 87 if you want a laugh its in pieces on my table,,,,the LCD plugs and IC driver got salt water corrosion from a downpour of rain a few drops must have entered the case thru the LCD area. when my R31 broke down in the dark I had to sort the lights out in the rain, some previous owner had hacked the wires behind the battery for some fog lights and used 3 different pieces of wires to extend the circuit off the relays. dickhead..lol

but good old Fluke, a little toothbrush and baking soda scrub off and circuit board cleaner, works good again, now to fix the light on it...grrrrr

I've had this thing since it came out, dropped a million times, nothing beats a FLUKE, but on my current budget I bought a jaycar top of the line one to measure High current thru a clamp rather then shunt 300amps

Fluke 87 cost a boat load in OZ, and someone stole my 78 off the workbench when I worked in Denver

Fluke is backup now. till light is fixed.

Nothing wrong with some cheaper ones, some even test transistors and diodes by simple plug in. great for circuit level board work. I have a few cheapos for that very thing, lol

tools are like porn,,,, you can never have enough..lol kidding on the porn..lol

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

a incandescent Test light is fatal to a newer car, LED bulb ones not so bad but still draw too much current for some circuits. like a airbag /ECU ???

and wont tell you if its 5 volts or 13volts on the wire ? both light up the dumb test light

and I don't know how many times a rookie installer uses a dash/dimmer light wire for grounds, cause it shows as a ground on most cars, until you flick on the lights, then positive voltage hits the radio ground. and floats the ground on the radio thru the antenna jack...not a good thing

08yannch Rising Star

08yannch

Posted
Posted
lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

i was actually referring to a $10 multimeter sorry for the confusion every one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...