Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry guys, SAU stuffed up last night and didnt put my post up lol

First up, Car is:

R33 GTSt (1994)

Anyways, basically My Rear CV's are starting to click and im trying to find some replacements. Ive been asking around and cant seem to find anyone that can get me a new CV shaft or anything for. Has anyone found somewhere to get replacement CV joints or shafts, either new or recon.

At the moment im thinking im going to have to get mine reconditioned or buy second hand ones and either use them or get them reconditioned and swap them out

anyone else got any other ideas where i could find some?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/
Share on other sites

Thanks mate

I'm not sure if it makes a different but someone has told me they think the balls have worn. That idea isnt one I'd thought of lol but I'm gonna see how much it is for a recon of the CV's, hopefully shouldnt be more then around $200 or so, I'm going to pull them out myself.

Ill post up all the info I can when I get prices on mine or get them done but so far:

- No CV/Driveshaft places seem to be able to get an R33 rear CV Joint or CV Shaft, have found where they will do R32 ones.

- Nissan may be able to help, I havent bothered to ring them yet. Think the price there will be a bit steep

- 2nd hand from a wreckers is an option, I got quoted $125 for mine (5 bolt pattern to the diff) or i think it was $85 for the 3 bolt pattern ones

- Recon... Well I'll let you know when I find out prices

I did see some CV shafts on Ebay but they didnt look right, im not sure if they had more stock and just werent showing it all or what was going on.

I also havent rung around places in Bigger cities, maybe in Sydney where a driveshaft place has more to do with skylines they might be able to help

Ill let you know what else i find out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5384135
Share on other sites

Hi.

Hope you have success resolving your problem. Just one point- the only thing that causes clicking is wear in the cage- balls bearings are much harder than the cage material and are immersed in grease so wear in these is miniscule.I have seen oversize ballbearings used to take up cage wear. Not a very satisfactory solution as the larger ball has to fit into the machining in the joint which also sees hardly any wear. Many years ago when we used to be involved with racing minis cvs were swapped annually side to side to get 2 years use instead of 1 year then usually went into one of our road cars if needed. If you get stuck reverse them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5384348
Share on other sites

Thanks mate. Im hoping that they will have CV's that will fit, might not be specifically be for an R33 but are the same design. Ill just have to make sure that they will handle the power of a Skyline, not a Charade lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5384417
Share on other sites

Have had it over the pit today, and had someone else look and theyve confirmed its outer CV joints.

What I'll do is when I get them Recon'ed ill let everyone know how much it cost and post up some details. Maybe I'll even do a DIY or something with photos

They will probably come out of the car at the end of the month as I'm quite busy in the mean time and need a car. But I will post up my results and as much information as I can so hopefully I can help someone else out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5386736
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok so I pulled my CV shafts out today, Its a bit of a pain but not to bad overall.

I will hopefully hear back on repairs etc by the end of the week, if anyone is interested I can ask what parts match up to the R33 parts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5434896
Share on other sites

Alright so Car is all back together and no more clicking so must have been the CV's. The outer CV's were replaced with new units, I'm unsure on what they came from as I was away on holidays and had someone else pick them up but they seem to have an ABS ring around the outside of them and look quite chunky and tough.

If anyone is interested I might be able to do a DIY to help out but will be purely up to interest.

I will try and find out what the CV's I got come from and give a price on the rebuild when I get the invoice for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331475-rear-cv-joints/#findComment-5442828
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...