Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there

I am after some info on the apexi safc, like how much more power would u get out of using one and can u tune the car that much more with one with standard ecu. Sorry for my ignorance I dont understand them that much. I have the following mods if that helps.

Nissan Skyline1997 r33 s2

apexi airfilter

walbro fuel pump

large front mount

dump 3in exhaust

splitfire coilpacks

atomic boost controller running 10psi

bov

with standard turbo

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/
Share on other sites

not sure how much power you have now but with a SAFC you can tune the air/fuel and net 250-280rwhp

aorund 200 now? assuming you dont hit R&R

but if you plan for more mods in the future then get a stand alone ecu which can control ignition timing would be better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5384682
Share on other sites

Hi there

I am after some info on the apexi safc, like how much more power would u get out of using one and can u tune the car that much more with one with standard ecu. Sorry for my ignorance I dont understand them that much. I have the following mods if that helps.

Nissan Skyline1997 r33 s2

apexi airfilter

walbro fuel pump

large front mount

dump 3in exhaust

splitfire coilpacks

atomic boost controller running 10psi

bov

with standard turbo

thanks

Most cars with those mods will get between 180 to 200rwkws.

I got similar mods on my car minus the FMIC (only got a SMIC off a 34 GTT) & the coil packs (still on stock ones I think), I got 180rwkw when I got my SAFC 2 tuned at All star garage.

Also my car is a 4 speed slug auto box so theres more power loss at the transmission compared to manual.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5384734
Share on other sites

i reckon something like a Nistune/Mines/Blitz tuned computer coupled with a SAFC is bomb, that way you have the more agro timing maps, and can still pull/put fuel where you need it!!!

why do you need safc when you have nistune?

Mines/Blitz are tuned in jap land and i dont think their suitable with aussie conditions

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5385064
Share on other sites

Hi there

I am after some info on the apexi safc, like how much more power would u get out of using one and can u tune the car that much more with one with standard ecu. Sorry for my ignorance I dont understand them that much. I have the following mods if that helps.

Nissan Skyline1997 r33 s2

apexi airfilter

walbro fuel pump

large front mount

dump 3in exhaust

splitfire coilpacks

atomic boost controller running 10psi

bov

with standard turbo

thanks

I used to have an Apexi SAFC and an SITC (to control timing) and they worked reasonably well but I would recommend a Nistune chip which will give you much better tuning ability for about the same money. Nistune do not make a chip for the R33 so you will have to use an R32 ecu or other and chip that. Do some searching - there have been a few threads on this topic.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5386329
Share on other sites

If you are ABSOLUTELY sure u are not going to do any more mods except raise the boost 1-2psi the safc will be the cheapest and best bet.

U may just get a few extra max kw but the good part is that you can tune out R&R with it and make the mid range come to life

I had an safc2 along with an adj fuel pressure reg and the exact same mods listed above on my 25 and the car felt so much better to drive without that hole in the mid range

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5386372
Share on other sites

True that ^

But then again it seems pointless. A Nistune board will cost much the same as a SAFC, perhaps a little bit more considering you need the R32 Or Z32 board for an R33. You need a tune on the Nistune or the SAFC, Nistune will be cheaper to tune because it will already have a base image for your car. And then the gains you will get from the Nistune far outweigh those of a SAFC...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331866-apexi-safc/#findComment-5386539
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...