Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling the spare rims off my skyline to pay for Semi slicks for my works rims that have just been repaired.

post-47580-1281667931_thumb.jpg post-47580-1281668045_thumb.jpg

Will sell these rims and tyres for $400.00 (3 new tyres and one original which is ok) Wheel nuts not included!

Also have -

New 235/40/18 Sunny tyre - $100.00 ono (Was on the car for 500kms)

235/40/18 Nankang NS2 with some tread, camber wear etc - $30.00

265/35/18 Nankang NS2 with tread left - $50.00 (Removed before worn out due to other tyre sidewall puncture)

Also have -

Front standard R34GTT swaybar - Offers

Read standard R34GTT swaybar - Offers

Standard R34 GTT BOV - $20.00

Standard R34 GTT Injectors - Offers

Can be contacted on 0434353292 or by PM on here.

Located at Tomago NSW

If you want any other details let me know.

Edited by 34GeeTeeTee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332810-skyline-17-inch-wheel-18-inch-tyres/
Share on other sites

I forgot to add the fact that the rims are 17x8 & 17x9 running 235s all round.... LOL

PM Replied - Not sure how much stock injectors are worth, make an offer or send proper pics of that bonnet ;-)

  • 2 weeks later...

Injectors now $50 + Postage after some research i know what they are worth ;)

Also, looking at possibly selling my High Flow R34GTT turbo that is currently running on the car, the turbo makes 250rwkw without cams or a Z32 so maybe potential for a little more... I am looking to go bigger so if someone names the right price i will look at selling it as well....

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...