Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll keep it nice and short. I locked my car keys in :P, I left them in the ignition with the radio turned on and went to plays sports. When I realized that I locked my self out, I called the RAA. They came around and could not open the drivers side door. It is a 4 door R33. The rear and passenger side doors open, but I can't open my drivers side door even with the key now. Does any body know what the f is going on? Please help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332862-drivers-side-door/
Share on other sites

on mine my key has to be in a very exact position before the drivers door will open

The thing is the key does open all the other doors even when used at the drivers side lock, it just rebounds back and locks them all again. Even when I'm inside and push the lock nob to open, it opens all the other doors (except drivers side) but then rebounds and locks them again. Its so god damn annoying that I'm almost ready to cut the trim out and see what the hell is going on :P !

Edited by RUNVS
The thing is the key does open all the other doors even when used at the drivers side lock, it just rebounds back and locks them all again. Even when I'm inside and push the lock nob to open, it opens all the other doors (except drivers side) but then rebounds and locks them again. Its so god damn annoying that I'm almost ready to cut the trim out and see what the hell is going on :P !

take the skin off and see. theres only 4 screws from memory on a 33, 1 in the handle and 3 at the bottom.

I'll keep it nice and short. I locked my car keys in :thanks: , I left them in the ignition with the radio turned on and went to plays sports. When I realized that I locked my self out, I called the RAA. They came around and could not open the drivers side door. It is a 4 door R33. The rear and passenger side doors open, but I can't open my drivers side door even with the key now. Does any body know what the f is going on? Please help.

have you tried disconnecting the battery, then trying the key?

might be central locking gone mad, and not having power run through it could do the trick.... if the central locking motor has seized, u might have to sacrifice a door trim.

::::EDIT::::

judging by ur other post, the motor may have seized, or the relay has gone tits up

have you tried disconnecting the battery, then trying the key?

might be central locking gone mad, and not having power run through it could do the trick.... if the central locking motor has seized, u might have to sacrifice a door trim.

::::EDIT::::

judging by ur other post, the motor may have seized, or the relay has gone tits up

Yeah, I tried the battery trick. Still the same story.

I guess I'm looking for a door trim now or a price on getting this door working again :banana:. Either way I got to do something, luckily It's a weekend car.

Anyway thanks for your help.

With the battery disconnected. Try the key in the door, at worst you may have to hold the key in the unlock position whilst opening the door. The door should open.

If this is what you tried then it sounds like you are up for a new lock mechanism.

Or if you are lucky it might be that the RAA guy has just bent something.

Best of luck

Simon

ive had this happen on my passanger door also, its a loose wire clip that holds the auto lock mechanism together. I had to pull the exterior trim out carefully and mess around with a coat hanger to hold the wire in a certain position where i could open the damn door.

just take your door trim off and follow the locking wire all the way back to the servo, im sure youll find where the problem is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...