Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Having problem with my R34 GTT:

Engine goes very rough at low boost levels, for instance at idle speed and when revving without any gear engaged to about 2-3000rpm it “coughs” and seems to have very rough hiccups all the time, if you know what I mean…? At high boost levels it runs like a dream though, no problems at all to rev to the limiter and there’s plenty of power without delay or hesitation.

So, wtf!? What do you reckon?

Stuff on the car: pod filter, fmic and 3” cat-back.

Also, thinking about leaving Sweden to move to Australia with my girlfriend. Do you recommend it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333454-engine-works-well-at-high-boost/
Share on other sites

Also, thinking about leaving Sweden to move to Australia with my girlfriend. Do you recommend it?

Yes!! :laugh:

Has your car been tuned or is it stock ecu?

Does it happen while cruising/decel or on acceleration?

hehe, ok! That's all I need to hear, you just made me decide to move there :(

Will need to start looking for jobs first. Thinking about Holden, where's the development site situated?

The car runs with stock ECU. It's all stock except HKS pod, FMIC, HKS cat-back and HKS ssqv.

It happens while cruising, anytime the boost is gentle and even. Decel or acceleration works just fine.

:laugh:

hehe, ok! That's all I need to hear, you just made me decide to move there ;)

Will need to start looking for jobs first. Thinking about Holden, where's the development site situated?

The car runs with stock ECU. It's all stock except HKS pod, FMIC, HKS cat-back and HKS ssqv.

It happens while cruising, anytime the boost is gentle and even. Decel or acceleration works just fine.

:laugh:

I've changed a life. My job here is done :(

So when cruising you would be driving on vacuum not boost yes? On boost you would be accelerating. Does it hunt at idle, like rev up and down? And is it more pronounced when the car is warm or is it exactly the same when it's cold? Sort of sounds like it could be a problem my mates R32 had, was effectively a vacuum leak. The air regulator was stuck open, so when the car was cold it ran fine but when it warmed up the air regulator was still open and the car was getting too much air. Ran fine when you were accelerating, but trying to cruise it would just stutter and jump, etc.

Could also be a problem caused by that atmo bov you have.

YES COME TO AUS! Bring MORE swedish girls with you too! (my GF is Estonian, so if we got more or them/Swedes in this country, we'd be happy men)

Could be the stock ECU is gumby, or the AFM is fail....sounds kinda like it might be running excessively rich, but once the airflow climbs up with more boost, it compensates and evens out...

Might be that you're running too cold plugs. What plugs are you running?

list of mods?

Actually don't know. Havn't checked since I bought the car, the plugs were brand new then. Will check tonight or this weekend. Temp grade 6 is standard, right? With my mods which I've already listed above, should I go for 6 or 7?

I've changed a life. My job here is done :P

So when cruising you would be driving on vacuum not boost yes? On boost you would be accelerating. Does it hunt at idle, like rev up and down? And is it more pronounced when the car is warm or is it exactly the same when it's cold? Sort of sounds like it could be a problem my mates R32 had, was effectively a vacuum leak. The air regulator was stuck open, so when the car was cold it ran fine but when it warmed up the air regulator was still open and the car was getting too much air. Ran fine when you were accelerating, but trying to cruise it would just stutter and jump, etc.

Could also be a problem caused by that atmo bov you have.

Yeah, you're right, vacuum not boost, sorry. I find both the technical issues and the language quite hard you see...

The rpm stays quite even at idle, but not as even as it should be I guess. It "huffs and puffs" quite much at idle, and it's no difference between hot or cold engine. Sounds as your friends R32 had the same probs as mine. Will check the air regulator. One question though; where's the air regulator and how do I check it? :ermm:

In what way might the bov be the thief in this drama?

Could be the stock ECU is gumby, or the AFM is fail....sounds kinda like it might be running excessively rich, but once the airflow climbs up with more boost, it compensates and evens out...

What I've heard before the stock ECU would cope with the mods I've done already (pod filter, fmic, cat-back, ssqv)? Do you have other experiences? If it is what you say, then a new ECU is the only solution I guess..?

How do I check the AFM? Already pulled out the AFM cable when engine at idle and it started to run really bad, almost died. That means the AFM works, at least a little bit? Can I clean the AFM somehow?

Thanks for your feedback! Will have to bring a lot of swedish girls to compensate! :D

Air regulator is located near the plenum, follow the vacuum line that is Tee'd into the hose coming from the AAC valve.

Bov could be the culprit as it is atmospheric, it releases the air into the atmosphere after the AFM, causing the ecu to over inject and run rich. But bov's usually cause problems on decel, so it doesn't sound like this is the cause of your problem...

And is it more pronounced when the car is warm or is it exactly the same when it's cold?

Hey again,

just realized that the problem is much worse when engine's warm! Does that make it easier to say what's might be wrong?

Thanks

Ok, thanks mate! Will have to check that out then. Just to clearify: Air Regulator is the same thing as AAC valve, right? Or am I reading the service manual wrong?

This Air Regulator, does it have a part number and how much does it cost approximately?

THANKS!

Problem fixed!! :thumbsup:

Vacuum hose cracks (one was completely spilt all the way along the hose!), useless plugs (original modified to 0,5mm!) and crack angle sensor set to 27 degrees!! :D

Air regulator, AFM and ignition coils works just fine.

New spark plugs, rubber hoses and crack angle back to original 15 degrees - it's all fixed and it runs like a dream! :)

Edited by ksx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...