Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Took my V to QR yesterday for the sprints/clubman and had a ball

Car surprisingly handled very well for a stock setup and I was only lapping 1 sec slower than a Supercharged 350Z with semi slicks + brembos "although he had different discs and pads"

Now for the bad news, my brakes did start to suffer massive fade towards the end of lap 4 which I expected as I didint have high temp pads

They managed to hold out until the end of the day so I would have done @ least 25 laps but they did feel rather cooked at the end of the day so much so that the slots in my front discs were now full of pad dust/metal

I had new front pads and slotted rotors fitted about 10k ago although the rears @ the same time were looking ok so I left them alone

Now when I was almost home I noticed the brake warning light coming on when I was braking although the brakes were still working they didn’t feel anywhere near as good as they did before I went to the track

I parked the car @ home and left it overnight

I started it up this morning to find that the SLIP and VDC off lights are now always on + the brake warning light comes on whenever I touch the brake pedal

I noticed that the brake fluid was @ about 1/2 full im sure it was more like 3/4 full the last time I checked

I also noticed that the back left disc was looking particularly worn

Id say its time to get new rear discs/pads + a top up for the fluid, Im guessing there might also be some air bubbles in my brake lines as the fluid would only be dot 4 or whatever Nissan put in when I had the front pads/rotors done

Im hoping that after replacing the rears and having a bleed done things will go back to normal

What do you guys think

post-9102-1282186705_thumb.jpg

post-9102-1282186728_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333536-brakes-unhappy-after-track-day/
Share on other sites

Looks glazed to me and generally pretty rooted.

I would buy new discs and if you want to track the car again i would buy two sets of discs one set for cheap pads you dont care about for road use and the other i would buy carbotech pads from the usa with their own disc set so you dont contiminate the disc.

Just buy the cheapest discs you can find here in NZ i use BNT for that.

I used carbotech on my gtir they are awesome.

Just check if carbotech make pads for the g35 and you should be golden.

I havent changed the brakes on these but id expect there is a pad sensor to tell you they are worn or something. I cant tell from that pic if the pads are down to the backing plates or not.

Edited by austingtir

Ew. Those rotors are cactus. Time to change up...I would hazard a guess that your pads weren't coping with the temperatures and pretty much deposited themselves all over your rotors. Go with good pads and good fluids and your rotors shouldn't ever look like that. My rear rotors are stock and have done around 10 track days, only just starting to lip. VDC and SLIP light can come on if you have a big off or spin, try resetting the ECU and driving around for a few k's, should go away...if not maybe get it checked out.

Sounds like some good driving over there...Supercharged 350Z guy NOT representing!

Took it easy on the drive to work and when I parked the car turned it off then back on the lights were back to normal hope the stay off when I go to drive home 2nite

Def need new discs and pads for the rear will check out some ds2500 pads for the front

Also wondering if swaybars will make a noticeable difference who else tracks their v ?

Took it easy on the drive to work and when I parked the car turned it off then back on the lights were back to normal hope the stay off when I go to drive home 2nite

Def need new discs and pads for the rear will check out some ds2500 pads for the front

Also wondering if swaybars will make a noticeable difference who else tracks their v ?

If you brake fluid is low, it will cause the VDC off to light up. I found with my V36 that the VDC light would come on and stay on after driving up a hill. After topping up the fluid it has not done it since.

Also wondering if swaybars will make a noticeable difference who else tracks their v ?

Best and 1st handling mod you should make to the V.

better brake fluid will go a long way to preventing fade under high temps. Your current fluid has probably been cooked hence poor feel etc.

Iv got to do something about the POS open diff as well, traction controll was kicking in a lot!

so yeah im thinking in the order ill get it done

Better pads/fluids/new rear discs

Swaybars

LSD

Car surprisingly handled very well for a stock setup and I was only lapping 1 sec slower than a Supercharged 350Z with semi slicks + brembos "although he had different discs and pads"

Sounds like the problem was him. The Z33 is lighter and more rigid than the V35, and R-Comps alone should have made a massive difference.

I noticed that the brake fluid was @ about 1/2 full im sure it was more like 3/4 full the last time I checked

Low brake fluid will trigger a fault code in the car's VDC system. It'll drop into "limp home mode", where those dash lights come on and it disables ABS/VDC. Sometimes if you have massive spins the VDC will shit itself due to the crazy inputs through the ABS sensors and throw up a fault, but restarting the car usually fixes that immediately. If you parked the car up and it was still doing it, then it'll be something else.

Fix up your brakes, and the problem should go away.

Sounds like the problem was him. The Z33 is lighter and more rigid than the V35, and R-Comps alone should have made a massive difference.

I must have had a larger set of balls when it came in to corner entry.... hmm cooked brakes road rubber myself putting my faith into the VDC to sort things out if I stuffed up.

Id say the only reason he was 1 sec quicker was because of the straights

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...