Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

install it in the place of the original narrow band sensor if you are using it with a narrow band emulator to your ECU

or you can install it inline with your normal narrow band sensor, but it needs an exhaust bung and thread like your normal 02 sensor. an exhaust shop can do this for you

install it in the place of the original narrow band sensor if you are using it with a narrow band emulator to your ECU

or you can install it inline with your normal narrow band sensor, but it needs an exhaust bung and thread like your normal 02 sensor. an exhaust shop can do this for you

can you explain the first part there, should i install it in the original 02 sensor place? the exahaust bung is the thing that the sond should screwed in to right? i have one of thoose that came with the package...

Not ideal but have you got a de cat?

The wide band sensor can be put in place of the temp sensor, not so much f**king around tbh and the stock one can be left in place or

I think you can run without stock o2 sensor while you set up on road then re place after if you want up to you I'm sure the o2 sensor has no use at wot it's only for low rpm and you can run without it anyway

Not ideal but have you got a de cat?

The wide band sensor can be put in place of the temp sensor, not so much f**king around tbh and the stock one can be left in place or

I think you can run without stock o2 sensor while you set up on road then re place after if you want up to you I'm sure the o2 sensor has no use at wot it's only for low rpm and you can run without it anyway

Yes i have a de cat, so i can just take out the stock o2 sensor and plug in the uego sensor instead and it will work anyways, then maybe set the stock sensor back when ever i want?

Yeah just un plug it and see what happens I no at least three people that run without them.

But

I no many more that have a much much better fuel return if they replace this servicable item

okey i will test this just as a test to see and then weld the bung some other day, can i weld the bung in the decat? or is that to far away?

Just a quick question while on the subject about widebands. I understand the reasoning about most widebands needing to be about 1m away from the exhaust housing, however have people ran one in the stock position without problems, or do you all run them furthur away to prevent them getting so much heat into them?

Edited by PM-R33

It's important to mention that when you hook up the wide band you will not be sending any data to the ecu ( even if you were I doubt it can understand what is being sent as it's wide band)

All you will be doing is reading the AFR on a gauge

Just a quick question while on the subject about widebands. I understand the reasoning about most widebands neading to be about 1m away from the exhaust housing, however have people ran one in the stock position without problems, or do you all run them furthur away to prevent them getting so much heat into them?

as long as it's not got a egt sensor I no people that have litrally just shoved the wb as far up the exhaust as they could and clip the end to the outside like they do on a dyno run not advisable but temp fix if your impatiant.

I don't see why there would be any problems if it were in the de cat tbh.

But hay Im no mechanic

well the stock o2 sensor wont come of so that idea wont work :S and welding the bung to the exhaust is a problem because i have a stainless exhaust and no mig to weld stainless :S god damn it, any ideas how i can get the stock o2 sensor to come off?

Did you not get a manual with your wideband???

If you are going to leave it in permanently AEM recommends 36" from the exit of the turbo, as the closer you get to the turbo the sensor life is reduced due to heat, and never run it installed without power to it.

Also u need to retain your oem narrow band sensor as you are still using the stock ecu along with the safc otherwise fuel economy will be terrible

Did you not get a manual with your wideband???

If you are going to leave it in permanently AEM recommends 36" from the exit of the turbo, as the closer you get to the turbo the sensor life is reduced due to heat, and never run it installed without power to it.

Also u need to retain your oem narrow band sensor as you are still using the stock ecu along with the safc otherwise fuel economy will be terrible

yeah i kinda understood that to, i was just gonna put it in the oem place just for the tuning part then change back, but now i will have to find somebody that can weld in stainless and put it thoose 36" from the turbo.

Any good place that i can get the harness into the car??

U can pass it through the hole where the cat sensor wire passes but you have to bend the sheet metal a little bit to get through that big ass connector it comes with.....slit the rubber grommet to get the wire through straighten back the metal and fit back the rubber in place

You'll have to remove the passenger seat also to make it easier :(

U can pass it through the hole where the cat sensor wire passes but you have to bend the sheet metal a little bit to get through that big ass connector it comes with.....slit the rubber grommet to get the wire through straighten back the metal and fit back the rubber in place

You'll have to remove the passenger seat also to make it easier :(

thanks alot! i will do that :(

hi

to clear up a few things. you MUST consult the install manual for the wideband sensor, don't just install it and hope for the best.

wideband 02 sensors are very sensitive and can fail easily and are costly if you break them for stupid reasons.

i recommend you read the install documenation as they have very specific mounting instructions.

ie dont mount them upside down, after the turbo outlet is OK, the closer is generally better etc

if you remove the factory 02 sensor and put a wideband 02 sensor in the same bung

then depending if your 02 sensor has a controller box, these sometimes have a narrow band 1v output

you should then run this to your ECU so that you get working normal closed loop feedback and get normal economy

with an poorly tuned cruise AF/R setup and a wideband sensor and the stocker unplugged your economy will be ordinary

because when you are on closed loop / light cruise the ECU has no narrowband input so it cant trim accordingly

so the recommended way is use a wideband with its own AFR guage, a narrowband conrtoller 1v output to the ECU you are using

So Paul are you saying it is ok to run a wideband in the factory location, so close to the turbine outlet even though it states to be around 1m away? (Talking about hooking up a Techedge 02 up to a Vipec here).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...