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How to turbo your N/A

666DAN

By 666DAN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

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I'm picking up the N13 (S)Exa this week as well, need to investigate the current CA18DE that's in it though as it's suddenly decided to run on 3 cyl.

If it turns out to be nothing too bad, operation bolt-on GT28RS will begin :( I've got pretty much everything at my disposal to pull this conversion off for sub $1K haha lets see how it goes!!!!!

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MirKz
MirKz

havent you forgotten to list pistons ? you need low compression pistons, otherwise using the standard high compression pistons that NA's have will just F*&k ure engine VERY quickly.. although i h

mrjelly
mrjelly

i have a 1993 r32 gts with a rb20det conversion. i bought it this way so i dunno whats been done. power seems sweet up until 5000rpm, where it seems to hit some flat spots in power from there onwards.

unarmed_skyline
unarmed_skyline

hey i just though i would go back a little bit and add something in, in relation to drilling the oil return line into the block a way of getting around this would be to buy an oil cooler and run the o

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666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

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Can't complain for a $100 car :sweat: I'm sure even finding a replacement CA18DE will be fairly cheap, may blow the budget out to $1250 though :)

Oh better factor in the cans of cheap white paint as well, no expense spared here :w00t:

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

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Post #1

The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted (edited)
The oil & water lines were modified and extended with stainless steel braided hose. The water supply was taken from the heater lines…the oil feed had to be taken from near the filter and the return is via a tap into the block..

that only applies if your turbo is oil & water cooled :D

since my turbo is oil cooled only im going to get the return via the sump so tap into that.

Edited by dori32
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Well my car's at the workshop as I speak, and already hit a couple of bumps. The braided lines I bought aren't going to be long enough and I'm going to need them made to the correct lengths. Problem is the speed flow fittings they sell are as dear as poision!

Any recommendations for a place that can make them up, preferably locally (Brisabne) that won't cost the earth?

Also after a factory actuator and bracket for an R33 turbo as the one that I received with it is too short :S

Provided I can get these issues sorted out pretty quickly they're happy to continue with the rest.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
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I'm going for budget but without compromising too much. Speed flow is probably beyond what I need? not sure.

Now it seems I need factory lines as well.

Factory Lines

2 metres Dash 3 Hose

2 x Straight Dash 3

2 x Dash 3 Banjo to fit R33 Standard Turbo

1 x 1/8 NPT thread to Dash 3 fitting

1 x T-Block for Oil Pressure Switch.

They don't want to tap the block without removing the engine, and been told that using heater lines is going to be the best way as the water isn't flowing consistently unless the heater is on.

So yeah now I'm on the pursuit of factory lines and cheap enough hoses/fittings...oh and an actuator

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

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The banjo lines are easy, all brake shops that make braided lines carry them. I actually had a 1/8 BPT to banjo made up for my car recently.

Even the water lines were timmed factory hard lines with braided heater hose clamped over them, worked fine.

The heater is constant flow in the R34's it's the vent that controls the level of airflowing through the heater, that's why with your A/C off (but still turned to 30 degrees) you can still feel hot air by your feet as the air mix vent is allowing air to go through the heater core ie it's a constant coolant flow setup. It's not like the old cars where a coolant valve opened. and then let if flow, it's always flowing regardless of A/C being on any temp or on/off

Yep they can do either a T-block or you can get an oil filter sandwhich plate with oil pressure pickup which should be cheapish as well.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the replies Dan :D Lines are all sorted now with speed flow fittings for $325.

Thanks to the guys at Hi-Power, one of the tuners had a few of the fittings I need at home they're happy to give me, and the hoses etc.. they're supplying so that's all worked out well in the end.

Now just sourcing an actuator, but at least everything else can continue in the mean time now which is good.

Once it's all done I'll be taking photos of the the hose lines and fittings to show how it's been done on my car.

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
Posted

i did the conversion on a r33, im gona try and take photos of my oil and water lines as well so you guys can comment... im pretty sure they sourced them from another place... or i think so... and when ever i have the heater on for a long time the car suddenly turns off... could this be caused by the water lines... thers a few dodgy things on my car which il take photos off and you experts can comment lol.. t.c

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

They're looking at taking the water feed from the intake hose..or something like that on mine. They didn't like the idea of running of the heater hose. That doesn't sound too reliable there J3TR33, I'd hate to be cruising with heater on and that happens! Then again I don't think i've ever had to use the heater in the car up here in Brisbane lol

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
Posted
They're looking at taking the water feed from the intake hose..or something like that on mine. They didn't like the idea of running of the heater hose. That doesn't sound too reliable there J3TR33, I'd hate to be cruising with heater on and that happens! Then again I don't think i've ever had to use the heater in the car up here in Brisbane lol

lol yeh i avoid it most of the time... even if i get hypothermia...

its happened lyk 3-4 times... and the stearing locks as well... so its dangerous...

J3TR33 Community Regular

J3TR33

Posted
Posted

ok... took some pics...

some1 please comment if there is anything wrong... thanks

DSC00937.jpgDSC00939.jpg

DSC00940.jpgDSC00941.jpg

1st photo: i think this is the water feed line, as you can see there is a rusty metal thing that has no hose attached to it.. good/bad?

2nd photo: two hoses connected to charcoal canister, one is blocked off with a nut, i think it was a vacuum line that ran to the manifold, at which now a vacuum line connected to the blow off valve is connected.. good/bad..

3rd photo: water line, runs to the firewall, might be t-pieced to heater hose, return line, im guessing, good/bad?

4th photo: that goldy bronze pipe is blocked off, it may have ran to the sump, now the return oil line runs to the sump.. good/bad?

The oil line was t-pieced from the oil pressure switch... i think the best place to get oil feed from..

My only concern is that the car turns off when the heater goes on, it could be the connection of the water hoses...

Thanks

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