Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,, does anyone know what cooler this is for??

DSCN5456.jpgDSCN5455.jpg

DSCN5438.jpg

I have a sedan A/T. I'm pretty sure its not a transmission cooler since it should be with the radiator?

So, would this be an Oil cooler?

In images 1/2 it shows the piping going to something that looks like an oil filter ??

thanks...

post-55699-1282621885_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621927_thumb.jpg

post-55699-1282621946_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/334078-what-cooler-is-this/
Share on other sites

Yeah deff the trans cooler my gt-8 looks identical.

On the gt-8 it runs into the radiator and then into that oil filter thing then the air to air cooler. Thats getting pretty serious imo.

Is yours a gt-8 or the normal auto?

Its suprises me if the auto trans has the same setup. I wouldnt of thought it would need both.

yeh i have gt-8.. mmm

so that means i dont need to purchase a trans cooler?

because my new rad doesnt come with one.....

You should have 2 coolers - one in the bottom of the radiator and the one pictured above.

The cooler in the radiator works to try to keep the trans oil at a constant temp, ie heats it up in the winter/when cold and cools it in the summer.

Obviously Nissan decided that the GT8 requires a second trans cooler to preserve the transmission.

If your new radiator doesn't come with one, take it to a radiator place that will put the stock "cooler" in the bottom of the new radiator.

Whilst I don't have the CVT (My Stagea has the RE5RO5A - same as 5-speed V35's - but AWD, obviously), when I replaced my radiator I found that in winter I needed the in-tank cooler (noticeable difference in shifts due to the trans ECU's oil temp settings), so had the stock one ripped out and added to my custom radiator.

Edited by iamhe77

You should either get the correct radiator with the oil cooler...... or upgrade your current oil cooler when you replace with that radiator your looking at and drive slowly until everythings warmed up..... probably not the best.

Replacing with the correct radiator is the best option as i have seen a chart that shows the best operating temps for the traction oil and it actually likes being reasonably warm (traction effect goes up with increase in temp within its operating range).

If you go with a bigger air to air i would use a thermostat.... assuming the black round thing is an oil filter and not a thermostat.

You need to find that graph im talking about that will let you know what temp thermostat you would need... cant remember where i found that now.

If you do pull it all apart check that black round thing is a filter as im keen to know myself?

thanks for the info...

so basically keep the stock cooler and rip out the cooler thats in my current radiator... ?? or.. get another cooler??

my radiator is leaking, thats why i'm changing it out.. called up a few wreckers around Sydney and the price for a radiator was around 400... so i felt better off just buying a new one...

austingtir: keen on that graph if you ever find it again...

Edited by moomoolulu

Yep, keep the stock cooler and make sure that your new radiator has a transmission "cooler" in it.

If that means you need to get the original OEM one taken out of the busted radiator and put into the new one, so be it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...