Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

looking like the best way around my problems is going to be to just replace the motor,

here some pics for you all from my engine !

Try the guy wrecking a series 2 manual in the stagea for sale section

thought the engines are the same, just the sump is modded for the front diff, just like the rb26, you just replace the sump and its just a normal engine, i didnt know there was a awd block, just thought there was a awd sump

yeah or you can get factory oversized pistons

on the others it should have a 1 or a 2 stamped into the top of the piston

that will be the size that that bore was honed to at the factory

dunno if you have to go bigger if you hone tho

if i hone back the engine... ill have to go bigger pistons correct?

is there anyway i can use a 2nd hand piston??

No

Only go bigger pistons if you "bore" (machine) the block from 86mm to either 86.5mm or 87mm max

Hone is just sort of like sanding it, so you will keep the same size piston, but usually fit new rings.

You could use a second hand piston. It will have to be from a "neo" engine as they are different to R33's etc.

With the mess you have in that cyinder, I would b3 stripping the entire block to flash out any foriegn metal particals etc.

Otherwise you will get it all back togather and have problems later.

With the amount of problems you are YET to face and lack of experience, I would suggest finding a complete long motor and move on.

ive kinda sources a 26 and box but i would also like to get this back on the go aswell.

i wont be doing any engine work as such, just re assembling it

i will take this engine out. get it honed back where needed.. drop a 2nd hand piston and new rings in and hope for the best

is it true the rings are 300 a set?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...