Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Ppls.

Well I just had my HKS Cam gear installed at a very reputable workshop and had it dynoed both before and after.

I decided to get dynos before and after so everyone could see exact results for your information (bloody cost me heaps too!!!)

We found virtually zero difference between standard or HKS, and have dyno results to prove it.

The car was left strapped to the rollers whilst the install took place to ensure that the results were controlled properly (moving the car on the rollers can effect results).

The techician is extremly experianced with these engines so he's not a hack.

I haven't been on a long fang to gauge full 'seat of the pants' results, but the dyno says no change.

They told me that with programmable engine management I would see more results, as I could then adjust the timing as nessecary.

Anyway, I will post up dyno charts this aftenoon to show you all.

Also, I had a run done with and without my exhaust silencer (which I will also post up) and the results are remarkable. HUGE drop in power through the whole rev range, as well as big boost drop up top.

Anyway, stay posted for pictures.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33462-just-had-cam-gear-fitted-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The car was run on the dyno, then fitted with the cam and retarded the timing 4 degrees, and then run again.

I don't know what the actual opening and closing point were before.

Maybe the Neo6 does not get the same results as the other RB25 DETs???

wowx2

never seen no improvement from cam gear change :P

power FC time mate :)

Well you can add me to your list then :) At least for now, it may change in the future after I tune my PowerFC.

I put in my gear and set it to 4 degrees, and the car ran noticably worse. It lost all its top end and maxed out the injectors a lot earlier. Now it could have just been that it lost its top end because the injectors were maxed out. But because the AFM wasn't maxed out, I'm thinking that it was just upsetting the timing too much.

I also tried 3 degrees with similar results, but it wasn't as bad as 4 degrees. So I put it back to 0 and that's where it is now and running pretty good.

When I get my PowerFC tuned (along with injectors and AFM upgrade) I'll get them to play around with the gear setting. If they find it works best on 0 degrees, out it goes and back goes the factory gear.

You're running no form of aftermarket management?

Isn't the idea of a camgear to run more agressive cam angle? if the stock ECU is just adjusting its own timings anyhow (which i believe it largely does this off the A/F mixtures it "sees").. that would be expected wouldn't it?

Did you reset the base timing between runs? it is pretty importand, as without doing this, there will be very little results.

If you think about it, 4 degrees is a fair bit, and if it isnt doing something major, perhaps its not being set up properly.

I had a 'reputable' tuner try and dial in my exh cam, but didnt go near a timing light, just used the first (pre dial in) timing mark - and surprise, the results were almost non existant.

If you have absolutely no idea where each cam is with respect to the crank, how do you know moving it a bit in one direction is ALWAYS going to give a certain result.

It seems to me, you need to know where you are, and where you should be, and shift it by as much as you need to get there.

The installer was the gentleman who used to set up the Gibson Motorsport Skylines which many times won the Touring car races and Bathurst, so I figure he knwos what he's doing. He's also busy setting up Targa cars.

The position of the cam in respect to the crank isn't really relevant as the cam gear lines up with four bolts for clamping and one dowel hole for positioning, so it can only go on one way and in one position. Twisting the outside pulley section in relation to the inside boss is what adjusts the timing either in advance or retard.

BASS OUT

You say that the cam with respect to the crank is not relevant ?

Well then what is the point of retarding it then ?

Of course it is relevant. The whole purpose of the cam is to open and close the valves at the right times. There are a whole lot of things that can shift the cam timing, especially stretch in the timing belt.

The only thing that I can think of is that the different cam profile on the NEO engine negates the use of a adj cam gear to adjust the cam timing....

Although it's strange that it didn't have SOME sort of effect, either gained or lost power..

I'm still running the stock ECU on mine (series 1) and you can actually see the slight buldge in power where (I presume) the cam gear comes to effect...

J

Warpspeed: I'll rephrase myself.

You know where the cam is in relation to the crank as the standard pulley is already in the zero degree position. The adjustable cam gear simply replaces that pulley identically when the setting it as zero. When you adjust the centre of the gear, you either advance or retard the timing of the cam.

Well I got a VERY noticeble increase in low and midrange torque. Mine was retarded 4 degrees. These days if i'm just staying with traffic flow it never comes out of 4th til i get below about 1200 revs....though it doesn't pull well untill it's back up to 1800

I've gone through the exhaust cam gear process twice now, old engine & new one. Both times we've found 4' retard has made ~10rwkw gain & NO loss anywhere in the rev range. We have also played around with the stock VCT inlet gear (can be adjusted from factory) but haven't found too much extra.

whatsisname:

Are you able to install an Adjustable Cam Gear on the inlet side as well, without completely removing the factory VCT gear?

As in, will I still have the VCT with the Adjustable Cam gear??

The reason I ask, is because if I can install both, then I can have light weight gears on both to reduce rotational mass and maybe advanve the inlet a little.

BASS OUT

Hmmm...... not sure if you could do an aftermarket/VCT combo mate? I don't see why you couldn't make the VCT assy bolt onto a HKS/OS Giken/Grex etc... cam gear.

As I mentioned above, the stock VCT inlet gear can be adjusted anyway. For a very minor reduction in rotational mass it's hardly worth the changing to an aftermarket gear, unless you wanted both the gears to look sexy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...