Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nismoid the Garret turbine maps actually show the flow rates of the 0.82 GT30 and the 0.63 GT35 as having similar maximums though IMO the GT30 0.82 is the better map , these are with the T3 flanged GT30 turbine housings BTW because the 30 and 35 both use them .

True, they would be close.

However he wants to chase more power so I'd be dubious as to wether it'll get any better.

Going up 100hp in comp size/flow, but down in turbine housing size... Can be a nasty mix.

25psi is still in a respectable efficiency zone of the 82mm compressor. It's out of the most efficient zone but still ok. Peak flow here is caps out at a touch over (60lb/min) , or almost 600hp before hitting choke.

If you use 90% of that flow then it equates to 440 to 450rwhp (assuming you had a larger engine). With 25psi as you stated you should get 410rwhp.

Can a 0.82A/R turbine flow this 410hp? Perhaps. You should check exhaust gas temps as you raise boost.

You probably won't need a bigger compressor just a bigger turbine (and total flow, so you'll also need a GT35 0.82AR). I'd guess a touch under 10% more lag ~400rpm, since you are only changing the turbine side to ~15% more flow. Why not have a look at the maps using true GT35 (3582) turbos and compare.

Edited by simpletool

thats all very interesting, as we all know the old faithful 20 is not the best choice for power, but ive always wanted

to know just how much a 2o can make when its a built engine, i think the limiting factor will be the valves and ports

buts that when the nitrous will come into play.

do you think i should remove the 26 intake and tb's and go for a longer runner and larger 8omm tb option.

i had never thought about a td series turbo, always thought they were a bit old school with response. maybe a BB TO4Z?

How would my 3040 with a 1.06 rear housing compare to a 3582 with a 0.82 in hp rating and response?

I can handle another 500rpm of lag if it means the possibility of making my power goals.

Edited by boostn32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...