Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm having problems while driving my r33 gtst.

when accalerating from 2,000rpms to about 4,000 im getting major lag but when i go to plant the foot it feels better.

its feeling like the turbo is really holding back and im getting nothing?

i have replaced my coils and they were a part of the problem but still having issues.

i can't remember the last tune it had and have an unknown history with the turbo?

p.s my car isnt reving out to the 7,800rpm?. im getting 5,700rpm maxx???

hhheeelllllppp.

thanks alex :(:D

did u use new coilpacks or 2nd handies? does it miss at idle at all?

pull the plugs back out and see what colour they are and if they are all evenly coloured. this will tell u if the problem is in 1 or more cylinders, if its only 1 then it might be injector, spark plug coilpack etc,

if its all then could be airflow meter or sensor etc

the coils were brand new super spark coils.

ill change the fuel filter cos it never been done and ill check the spark plugs.

yeah its shagged on idle, it always going between 700 and 1100.

it never wants to stall tho?

While it's idling, use a spray with alcohol (wd40, brake cleaner etc) around the throttle body/intake manifold.. if theres a leak the revs will react and climb momentarily

ill be straight with yas, i got an unknown history with the ecu to. i have an modifide intake plenum to, its the standard skyline intake but the plenum one front not the side, its like thery have just welded it up on the side and made the fitting on the front??

injectors i have no history on to?

hey,

i sprayed my manifold and interccoling piping with wd40 and no sudden change in revs??

also changed the fuel filter and still no change!!

on idle it sounds like its putting a deep sound and isnt holding rev crash hot.

its going up and down with the revs, from 900rpm to 1100rpm like it cant find its idle??

starting to get angry at it..

its got the same amount of power as a vn ss standard.. :D:ermm:

car only hits full boost after i think 4500rpm and is 5psi before that so it may seem like a sudden "kick" when on full boost, and it may be hitting r&r in the high rev renge due to boost leek if you have turbo back exhaust etc, hence the cutting out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...