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hey guys ill start from the start had and aftermarkert plenum ready to go on but changed my mind .anyways put the stock plenum back on .started up the car and it didnt start first shot so tryed again workd was running really ruff and wanted to keep dying ..im thinkg vacum leak couldnt find anything .so went for a drive around the block just hit boost but was cutting out but stilll the revs where climbing as i was drving back down the street the revs just started riseng bu themselfs wtf! put some new fuel in it did the same thing cutting out sooo don my way home wouldnt go past 3000rpm and keept stalling blowing shitloads of blak smoke ,got to my mates turned it off but wouldnt start again ....so ripped out the plugs they were really blacks so cleaned em but it wouldnt start again ...also had an aftermarket frp set to 60psi on it but that has since been taken off so any help would be appreciated cheers

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Did you remove the AFM at any stage?

If not, I'd still be looking for a vacuum/boost leak somewhere. It'll be pretty large. Get a can of Aerostart or Start-ya-bastard and spray it around if you can get it running. When you spray it near the vacuum leak the revs will increase significantly.

If it won't start now it will be because the plugs are fouled. Clean them or put new ones in

Did you remove the AFM at any stage?

If not, I'd still be looking for a vacuum/boost leak somewhere. It'll be pretty large. Get a can of Aerostart or Start-ya-bastard and spray it around if you can get it running. When you spray it near the vacuum leak the revs will increase significantly.

If it won't start now it will be because the plugs are fouled. Clean them or put new ones in

thanks mate ill be taking it to dr drifts he has a smoke tester which works good so ill try that

  • 1 month later...
What AFM was taken off, and replaced with what. Hopefully you haven't replaced a stock RB20/RB25 (green sticker I believe) with a Z32 one or something silly like that?

....and if i did this with the stock ecu still in what would happen? my 32 is not starting after i put a z32 AFM in with the stock ecu. so i removed the stock ecu and battery. put dr drift ecu/battery back in.

now the engine will not fire.

pretty sure the ecu is tuned to remove the lean-derivative when adding the z32 but could i need a bigger fuel pump/injectors? I got it off a friend who had it running fine on his rb20 sil with z32AFM - he was also running 16psi vs my stock 11psi.

i will post a picture of the wiring to the z32 AFM as i had problems with it reading the signal at all.

any help would be much appreciated.

checking plugs/battery terminals and further vac seal testing tomorrow.

....and if i did this with the stock ecu still in what would happen? my 32 is not starting after i put a z32 AFM in with the stock ecu. so i removed the stock ecu and battery. put dr drift ecu/battery back in.

now the engine will not fire.

pretty sure the ecu is tuned to remove the lean-derivative when adding the z32 but could i need a bigger fuel pump/injectors? I got it off a friend who had it running fine on his rb20 sil with z32AFM - he was also running 16psi vs my stock 11psi.

i will post a picture of the wiring to the z32 AFM as i had problems with it reading the signal at all.

any help would be much appreciated.

checking plugs/battery terminals and further vac seal testing tomorrow.

yo ..nah all fixed shieald wire that runs to the tps was not shielded ...had to extend for aftermarket plenum all goodnow ........mmm weho wired up your afm?it is possible to damage the sensor if u dont wire it up properley man !

yo ..nah all fixed shieald wire that runs to the tps was not shielded ...had to extend for aftermarket plenum all goodnow ........mmm weho wired up your afm?it is possible to damage the sensor if u dont wire it up properley man !

i was afraid of that. i wired it up. 1st time was a dull attempt i must admit. but the second time i made sure everything was soldered/heatshrinked and secure. the pins were nicely revealed facing the socket. they were in correct order. although i may have had them in reverse at first....could that be the fault?

btw i had to go to global auto spares to buy 2 little slider socket things which are a B$%^ to find for those faced with this problem.

do they need to be heatshrinked right until the end so there is absolutely no copper exposed? do u think by extending the lines i may be "altering" the signal ? cuz the cables were way too short to work with.

do u have a pic of ur wiring?

Can't use a non-stock AFM with a stock ECU. It may idle but it will run super rich because of the Z32 afm + stock ecu pairing, and probably fouled your plugs. May be worth checking if your Z32 is an actual genuine unit not a chinese copy.

Can't use a non-stock AFM with a stock ECU. It may idle but it will run super rich because of the Z32 afm + stock ecu pairing, and probably fouled your plugs. May be worth checking if your Z32 is an actual genuine unit not a chinese copy.

how do i do that?

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