Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just want to start off with some drag coefficient values:

Nissan R32 GTR = 0.4 Cd

Nissan R33 GTR = 0.35 Cd

Nissan R34 GTR = 0.34 Cd

Subaru Impreza STi 2004 = 0.33 Cd

Nissan Cube = 0.35 Cd

A freaken Impreza (peanut/tear drop eye) STi with it's massive scoop, 4 doors, bulky appearance is better than the aerodynamics of the R32, despite the sleek look. I feel that on the freeway i gotta give it a bit more gas than my previous Impreza because of the drag is creates. Is the aerodynamics a big issue for anybody else? How important is this in motorsport/track days? Just feel that the R32 has so much more potential if it were more aerodynamic.

Edited by TyresBro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335727-how-come-r32s-have-such-crappy-drag/
Share on other sites

It certainly effects them a lot, but the issue is also that at that point the car had to be designed to work on the race track with out any body modifications, and race cars need down force, which creates drag, this is my theory. Pretty sure the other reason might be that it was not to well thought out or designed..... I am actually thinking about removing rear wing and trying reduce drag a bit next time I go to the strip to see what diff it makes

You're comparing a 1989 shape car with a 2004 impreza???

I think there's your answer.

Cd is more than just a sleek look. eg Lambo Countach - 0.42

That aside though, I've honestly never felt it. And I'm going to a 32 GTR from a car with a 0.27Cd - V35 Coupe.

lol Dewds, I can pick out a lot of cars made around 1992 for a lot less Cd (eg. RX-7, Supra as mentioned, Civic, 180SX etc). It's just that there seem to be 2 different types of Cd, one for crappy body design, and the other is downforce. Read around and apparently the area of the front has a major role in aerodynamics too. Feels like such a handicap...

On the other note, would LOVE to see some wind tunnel testing of an R32 to determine if it's putting the Cd to good use.

Edited by TyresBro

Even if the R32 has a slightly high drag co-efficient, it would make shit all difference at speeds up to maximum legal speed limit of 110km/h. Drag co-efficients only REALLY come into play when you are talking about serious top-end drag racing (ie 7secs and lower) or serious circuit racing like the FIA GT1 champs etc.

I highly doubt you would be able to feel the difference on the freeway.

......Feels like such a handicap...
Even if the R32 has a slightly high drag co-efficient, it would make shit all difference at speeds up to maximum legal speed limit of 110km/h. Drag co-efficients only REALLY come into play when you are talking about serious top-end drag racing (ie 7secs and lower) or serious circuit racing like the FIA GT1 champs etc.

I highly doubt you would be able to feel the difference on the freeway.

Completely agree, and what i was trying to get at. I connot feel the difference at all between the V35 and the R32. (see my post above for the difference in the two)

And thats both cars on the track at both Wakefield and Oran Park, really don't know how the OP sees it as "such a handicap"

Regardless of the Cd rating they still handed the V8 Falcons & Holdens their asses at Bathurst & every other type of vehicle they raced against when they were released-including the Cosworth Sierra's.

I dont believe that its such a handicap tho-look at Victor Bray in that old school Chev, has the aerodynamics of a house brick but it still hauls ass ,so is it really that important considering the car was made in '92

The mainly noticable differences are on the freeway and downhills. The moment you let go of the accelerator, the car starts slowing down where as other cars start coasting or even roll faster. I'm not saying it like it's running on 3 wheels, but as the air drag increases as a square of speed, it exponentially increases the resistance and feel at higher speeds. That is where we have the disadvantage compared to other cars or similar class.

Regardless of the Cd rating they still handed the V8 Falcons & Holdens their asses at Bathurst & every other type of vehicle they raced against when they were released-including the Cosworth Sierra's.

I dont believe that its such a handicap tho-look at Victor Bray in that old school Chev, has the aerodynamics of a house brick but it still hauls ass

<facepalm>

The mainly noticable differences are on the freeway and downhills. The moment you let go of the accelerator, the car starts slowing down where as other cars start coasting or even roll faster. I'm not saying it like it's running on 3 wheels, but as the air drag increases as a square of speed, it exponentially increases the resistance and feel at higher speeds. That is where we have the disadvantage compared to other cars or similar class.

so many other things be coming into play there than aerodynamics. you could have a slightly sticking brake piston, poor wheel alignment, crappy wheel bearings, tight diff, etc. the gear ratios could also come into it because of how the engine responds when just left on compression braking. the higher the revs the more it will slow down when you lift off. the width and tread pattern of tyres can also come into play.

you would really need to compare your car to another car with all the same mods and then see how it performs.

cant believe a cube has better aerodynamics than a 32. LOLZ.

but as mentioned. everything else on and about your car will have more affect than the CD at freeway speeds.

your tyres for example. wide, sticky, agressive tread pattern. that will slow you down. gearing, that will do it. fat gf, that will definitely do it. ask boz. :)

cant believe a cube has better aerodynamics than a 32. LOLZ.

but as mentioned. everything else on and about your car will have more affect than the CD at freeway speeds.

your tyres for example. wide, sticky, agressive tread pattern. that will slow you down. gearing, that will do it. fat gf, that will definitely do it. ask boz. :)

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahahaha

*wipes away tear

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha

A freaken Impreza (peanut/tear drop eye) STi with it's massive scoop, 4 doors, bulky appearance is better than the aerodynamics of the R32,

Quite simple, really

Subaru >> Nissan :)

Seriously though, the aerodynamics are really onlu going to have a significant impact at speeds above 150km/h or so. At 100, you're chewing up less than 20kW in overcoming the aerodynamic drag.

Having said that, reducing drag has a much bigger impact on top speed than increasing power. A doubling of power would increase top speed by about 13% (rough rule of thumb figures - obviously a lot of other things come into play)

The CD figure is a pretty basic number used to define a car's overall aerodynamic drag. Essentially it is saying how much drag your car has compared to a house brick with the same frontal area as your car (putting it simply).

CD is a comparison of the car's actual drag to the theoretical drag which is calculated from stagnation pressure (1/2 x air density x speed^2) x frontal area. This calculation gives a drag coefficient of 1:1. Your car's drag coefficient is the actual drag divided by the theoretical (house brick) drag

edit: this is my recollection from studying this stuff 25 years ago, so I might have missed some fine details.

Edited by warps
Quite simple, really

Subaru >> Nissan :D

Seriously though, the aerodynamics are really onlu going to have a significant impact at speeds above 150km/h or so. At 100, you're chewing up less than 20kW in overcoming the aerodynamic drag.

Having said that, reducing drag has a much bigger impact on top speed than increasing power. A doubling of power would increase top speed by about 13% (rough rule of thumb figures - obviously a lot of other things come into play)

The CD figure is a pretty basic number used to define a car's overall aerodynamic drag. Essentially it is saying how much drag your car has compared to a house brick with the same frontal area as your car (putting it simply).

Thanks-that clears things a lil :D

I dont know much about this type of stuff-am hoping to understand it all a little

More to the point I guess is there any proven way to improve the cars performance with 1 type of body kit over another or perhaps or even paint finishings.

ie Kiwi yachtsmen use lanolin on their hulls to improve the boats slip through the water & powerboaters use it for better fuel economy-not possible on the car but??????????

clearly it has nothing to do with a sleek 'looking' shape - the LS400 when released had the lowest drag coefficient of any production car at the time 0.29 - and that thing has a front end on it like a tugboat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...