Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the only diffrences in Group A blocks (O5U)and standard older type RB26 blocks are one water jacket is enlongated....this can be done to the older block all R34 blocks have this O5U type block

*edit*Actually...it may be O9U.....i have to check my RB26 history book....its out on loan at the moment....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-672902
Share on other sites

The information you've been given so far is incorrect.

There are 3 different blocks: cast into the side of the block are the letters

05U or 24U

The std. blocks tend to crack bores when you exceed 550 to 600HP.

The STANDARD BLOCK 05U is a thin wall casting, due to the larger water jackets around the bores. (comes third for desirability)

The N1 and all R34 v-spec 24U is a thick wall casting and has the smaller water jackets around the bores. (comes second for desirability)

The GROUP 'A' BLOCK 05U but is a thick wall casting and has the smaller water jackets around the bores. (comes first for desirability, but rare)

Look for a block with the smaller water jackets, near the treaded holes for the head bolts.

You can buy the N1 block from NISSAN at around $3400.

Phillip

p.s. You can also get fully sleeved blocks.....but thats another story.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-674573
Share on other sites

Just some info from http://www.pow.com.au/gtr_engine_specs.htm

Race_block_sml_blk.jpgSpecial_Race_block_sml_blk.jpg

This is an ex-Bathurst Group A heavy wall block.

When GT-R engines make big horsepower (600hp+), they have been known to split the standard block. You may be wondering why the inside of the block is white in color ?

It has been sealed with an epoxy coating so that the oil drains back fast and bits of cast iron cannot break from the inside of the motor and go into the oil system. The welsh plugs holes have been tapped, the original welsh plugs removed and replaced with screw in machined aluminium ones to prevent them from ever popping out when under pressure.

This block is a very very rare item. These heavy wall blocks are not available anymore and are irreplaceable!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-679602
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
The information you've been given so far is incorrect.

There are 3 different blocks: cast into the side of the block are the letters

05U or 24U

The std. blocks tend to crack bores when you exceed 550 to 600HP.

The STANDARD BLOCK 05U is a thin wall casting, due to the larger water jackets around the bores. (comes third for desirability)

The N1 and all R34 v-spec 24U is a thick wall casting and has the smaller water jackets around the bores. (comes second for desirability)

The GROUP 'A' BLOCK 05U but is a thick wall casting and has the smaller water jackets around the bores. (comes first for desirability, but rare)

Look for a block with the smaller water jackets, near the treaded holes for the head bolts.

You can buy the N1 block from NISSAN at around $3400.

Phillip

p.s. You can also get fully sleeved blocks.....but thats another story.

hey mate ive got a n1 block

in perfect condition

ho muchcan i get rid of it for u recon

im tryin to get rid of it atm

ur saying $3400 brand new form nissan this block looks like its never been used

???

i know its a n1 block because it has 24u on the side of it..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-3550333
Share on other sites

hey mate ive got a n1 block

in perfect condition

ho muchcan i get rid of it for u recon

im tryin to get rid of it atm

ur saying $3400 brand new form nissan this block looks like its never been used

???

i know its a n1 block because it has 24u on the side of it..

You've opened 3 threads today asking the same question, stop spamming as you have already had your questions answered a number of times.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-3550336
Share on other sites

Man some ones going to buy the wrong block.

05U standard block

24U N1 block can be brought for $2500 from sau traders and dont think all R34 vspecs came with one.

RRR GT block best you can buy if you can find one dont go looking for change from $5000.

Brad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33589-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-3550737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...