Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

For the right price, I will let the following go:

- R33 S1 RB25DET - 127xxxKM - Complete motor, manifolds and all $1000

- R32 ECU, Splitfire coilpacks, Z32 AFM, 690cc injectors, complete harness - Tuned to suit complete setup $800

- HKS 3037 pro S - Turbo, HKS dump (suits factory location), water+oil lines, 3" metal intake, silicon joiners (complete setup bolt on turn key) $2500

- R33 GTST Gearbox - Clutch, lines, all accessories, tailshaft (exchange with whatever nissan shaft you have). $1200

This setup is everything you will need to have the kit BOLT UP AND TURN ON in your car. The only things that are not included are the FMIC and the front pipe back exhaust.

The dump that is included with the turbo is the GENUINE HKS ITEM designed for the pro S and to suit factory bolt up location in a GTST. This will bolt into all R32/33/34.

I would prefer to sell the lot AS A PACKAGE. I WILL DISCOUNT A LOT OFF THE PRICE TO DO SO. But, I warn, low ballers will be punished :).

This would be PERFECT for someone with a R32 GTST. All you will need is an exhaust and a front mount (which most of you have) and viva la 300rwkw.

Reason for sale: custom conversion.

PM only at this stage, drop the deposit and I will remove it all from the car.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336009-eoi-full-rb25det-hks-3037-setup/
Share on other sites

Wiring harness to suit a 32?

R33 repinned for 32 ECU.

Will supply entire engine harness. This is a turn key package, out of my car running, into your car running.

can you please give more specs on the turbo???

ie what rear housing?? shaft play??? etc

thanks

Turbo is in perfect working order.

No shaft play, purchased from eldorode666 on this forum recently and sourced via HKS themselves. Unit has roughly 10,000Km on it.

.87 rear housing, internal gated.

Make good note that the HKS dump pipe to suit SKYLINES is INCLUDED. As is a HKS big can actuator.

The setup is in the car and running. Comes with everything you need to bolt it to your motor and have it run. Comes with intake and meets up with any aftermarket front pipe made for a skyline.

I would prefer to sell everything in one hit, but I will consider parting the larger items first.

Cheers,

what power did it make on what boost and mods?

Its tuned, but I honestly have not run it on the dyno. The tune was done by CEFF1E and will be reliable.

I can see to having it tweaked if a touch up is necessary. The car can be viewed running, but I do not have an FMIC so I will not be winding the boost up.

Morning all,

To all PMing;

Once the turbo setup is sold, I will be happy to start separating parts. I will put up a revised price list once that takes place, for individual items.

Cheers,

Bump - Have interest but is still officially available at this stage.

First in best dressed.

Sell complete for a song or part out once turbo kit is sold.

Willing to accept non refundable deposit to hold, car is not being driven so your investment will be sound.

Gearbox will either be sold with the setup or once the turbo sells. Same goes for the motor.

If the turbo setup sells first Ill part the rest out one bolt at a time if I have to. If the turbo doesnt sell theres no other sales.

Items currently available:

Long motor $1000

Gearbox $1200

Seems like turbo kit and electronics are pending sale.

Also have a BRAND NEW JJR STEALTH INTERCOOLER KIT. I bought it on saturday and decided to part out tonight, no longer need the cooler kit... $500. I threw the boxes out and bolted it to the car.. Its been start and driven from the top of the driveway back to the garage :) Sydney pickup only.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...