Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Im currently looking into having a billet steel crank made to suit the RB30 since i am aiming at pushing the RB30 to its limit and also rev it to around 9,000rpm. I know some have done it with a standard crank but they havent lasted and i want to be able to rev it to 9,000rpm without having to cross my fingers im going to snap a crank.

So if anyone know who makes them or who i should speak to that would be greatly appreciated. Im also looking at having a billet crank girdle made to suit

Jordan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/
Share on other sites

Your probably going to get a few people asking "is this for street or strip?" and "Whats wrong with the std one?"

That said OS Giken do a 3L kit. Cant u buy their crank/girdle?

Nizpro also used to do the same job i heard, but dunno if they still do it.

U must have $$ to spend to build a motor like that man :( Hope its not for the street cos it wont last long

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673630
Share on other sites

Well i already know all that stuff and Nizpro arent really that good to deal with if they arent building your engine, the money is being spent and i dont understand people saying if it a street engine it wont last thats the good thing about turbo charged EFI engines they can be detuned for the street i only want an engine that will last on the track which puts alot more strain on an engine than the street does.

Jordan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673647
Share on other sites

Can i ask what ur budget.....um limit is for spending money on this engine?

and i dont understand people saying if it a street engine it wont last thats the good thing about turbo charged EFI engines they can be detuned for the street

Then whats the point in spending 1500 on forgies, 2-3k on forged rods, 3k on a crank girdle etc etc.... then have it detuned to run on the street??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673663
Share on other sites

Mate. My aim is to biuld a low 9sec car that will last more than a couple of runs and i also want it to run without NOS. I also want to drive it on the street and to Dyno comps where i see fit because unlike all these trailer ponies i want to prove that it can be done.

Bl4cK32: To give you an idea i am using a twin 3037R kit or 3240 kit depends what i can find, should tell you how much power i want to make

Jordan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673693
Share on other sites

Dont know if these numbers are still current or if the Sammut Bros are still racing... but al the info i have on them and the car

Peter and John Sammut (Sammut Bros)

State: Melbourne

Vehicle: 1996 Nissan 300ZX

Chassis: Full, with mostly original panels

Suspension: Strut front and Koni/4link rear

Diff: Mark Williams Auminium Pro Stock, pinion support, billet spool, 35 spline axles

Engine: 3.0 litre (183cu.in) Nissan in-line six cylinder (RB30-C) - Engine by Sammut Racing Products,

Aspiration: Twin turbo (parallel)

Cyl head: Aluminium cross flow, 2 valves per cylinder

Fuel System: Methanol mechanical injection

Power: 915HP @ 8950rpm

Torque: 688 ft lb max

Best ET: 7.966

Best MPH: 175.1

Transmission: Powerglide by SRP

Converter: 9" Dominator Weight: 2280lb

Achievements: National Record holder in DD/G and CC/G for ET and MPH. Multiple National Championship event winners. 1993 Australian Champions. 1993 Best Engineered.

Sammut Racing Products, Melb, Aust Tel 613 9315 6854 Fax 613 9315 6991

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673703
Share on other sites

and why the are you trying to prove you could build a car like Kier's, its already been done?  nothing new

Whats it matter if its been done before??? Doesnt mean other ppl cant equally enjoy it :D

Though, id be just as happy with a high 11second GTR and a healthy bank balance, but im a poor sack so that weighs heavily on my thinking. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673755
Share on other sites

Steve: The only bloke being a dick is you im asking for some info on crank builders and all the know it alls come out and tell you it cant be done, besides who says im trying to build a car like kiers for you information this will be alot different only the time will be similar

Roy: Cheers mate, i think people that cant dont want those that can to do it, makes them feel kind of insignificant

Jordan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673757
Share on other sites

[quote=DESCR8 besides who says im trying to build a car like kiers

Jordan

Umm - u did. + u said u wanted to drive it on the street, and race it on a track.

No need to take offence there mate, were just stating it takes big $$ for the engine u speak of.

Why dont u ask Sydneykid if he takes his 25K rb31 engine down to the track, stip, + drive it on the street to the local Maccas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673820
Share on other sites

I will next time i speak to him, anyway guys thanks for your info. Ive spoken to Nizpro and they said they will make me the Crank and girdle all up fitted and machined around $9000 if anyone else wants to do the same and they rate the rpm for 8800 which equates to a 25m/sec piston speed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673831
Share on other sites

Er, yeah, if you re- read my post, you will notice that i said "I" dont believe it can be done, I also said, do prove me wrong, because I would love to see it, I also said 'good luck'.

You also mentioned that people are saying 'it cant be done', well hey I didnt say that, and, if as you pointed out Kier is already doing it, why even bring up that it cant be done.

Bottom line, I didnt say you were trying to build a car like Keirs, you mentioned his car, I didnt say you couldnt do it, I said 'I dont believe its possible', you are the only one here who is saying 'it cant be done'

So really, who is the dick? perhaps you should read peoples posts before you go jumping off the deep end? you remind me of a spoilt child.

if you cant handle someone elses opinion, or allow someone else to have an opinion, WTF are you doing on a public forum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673847
Share on other sites

Roy, as what Bl4cK32 said

I took the statement that 'unlike all these trailer ponies I want to prove it can be done' and the I want to drive it on the street' to mean he wasnt talking about a car like Keirs, as there is nothing to prove there, it has been done.

Not saying there is anything wrong with Kiers car, but really, its not what most would call 'streetable' more like , 'its driven on the street' - world of difference

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673852
Share on other sites

Steve: Are you saying there is no such thing as RH9 cars

Just to be cheeky... 'THE RH9' car never even got to 9 did it?

:) oh well.

But yeah, why couldnt you drive it to macca, like seriuously.

are these race motors not allowed to be driven or something?

Me dont follow :aroused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673861
Share on other sites

R31 Nismoid

Huge cams, huge injectors, little power at bottom end, high stall converters/dog boxes - all make for a not so friendly road car, slug down low, and when they come on song, go nuts.

And very, very, very unlikely you could get it street legal, unless you live in queensland

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33610-custom-rb30-crank/#findComment-673867
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...