Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks mate. Im going with the easy option as to not risk messing up the geometry with custom arms since I dont have the patience to get it right. I found a couple of pics as you said.

Im getting a price on the Cusco arms with the 4 settings and will probably go with the Whiteline Plus UCA bushes.

Did you find any issues fitting the adjustable bush in conjunction with the Cusco arm? Looks like you cant use the bolt that goes through the bush which comes with the cusco arm, instead the two bolts that come with the kit, seems dodgy:

That is correct, you have to use the bolts that come with the bush and not the arm.

They are fine though.

That is correct, you have to use the bolts that come with the bush and not the arm.

They are fine though.

Ah k cool thanks for confirming.

Ive gone with your setup, Whiteline plus camber bushes and Cusco arms are in the mail, shouldnt be too long.

  • 1 month later...

Bushes and arms are in. As estimated they have delivered and extra -1.5 deg camber, Bushes give -0.5 and arms -1.

Total camber is now -3deg with 355mm hub to guard

A few observations

-Dont be shy when removing the stock bushes, I used vice grips, a pry bar, a hammer and anger

-In my opinion you should not be using the bolt/adjustment setup that comes with the whiteline camber adjustment kit, its rubbish

-The problem is worse when using the cusco arms

-One bolt is way too short, the other is too long so you can bottom it out in the metal bush centre and therefore adjust it by continuing to turn it clockwise once bottomed out. Meanwhile it comes with a tiny nut to hold the bolt against the side of the control arm. This is a stupid method which doesnt seem safe/strong, I value my safety so I bought my own correct length bolts that reach nearly all the way into the centre, I wont be adjusting

-The small allen key head cusco nuts round easily and loosen even when tightened to the point just before it feels like they will round

-I settled on using loctite, marking all of them and will be checking them regularly

The trick to installing the new bushes is to place both halves in first and then press the centre in from one side. If you get one side in and then try and press the other bush in it just doesnt seem to budge. I think this is because the space in between the bushes inside the control arm is airtight, there is no space for the air to escape so so bush will not go all the way.

Does anyone know how approximately how much the toe changes when you change camber, i.e if I go from -3deg and 0 toe to -2deg, what will the new toe be? Im assuming it will toe out with less camber but not sure how much.

post-2685-1288570667_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1288570682_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1288570693_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1288570703_thumb.jpg

post-2685-1288570710_thumb.jpg

Do you run them with aftermarket camber bushes in the upper arm as well or just the standard bush?

They just bolt in to the fixed location in the strut tower, where there is no adjustment, and have 3 bolting positions depending on the camber you require :laugh: I don't use altered bushes in mine at all.

Jesse Streeter ([email protected]) is the only person I use for importing parts. Cheaper than anything locally.

Wait til you've got the rest of the Cusco arms in the car. You'll love the set up you can get out of it.

I reckon it's time to upgrade my swaybars when my new Cusco coils go in the car :P

Edited by BTM

I have a huge question...

How hard are you turning on the street if you're wearing the outside of your front tyres with ~1.5 degrees camber?

Have you checked the rest of your toe/caster settings?

They just bolt in to the fixed location in the strut tower, where there is no adjustment, and have 3 bolting positions depending on the camber you require :D I don't use altered bushes in mine at all.

Jesse Streeter ([email protected]) is the only person I use for importing parts. Cheaper than anything locally.

Wait til you've got the rest of the Cusco arms in the car. You'll love the set up you can get out of it.

I reckon it's time to upgrade my swaybars when my new Cusco coils go in the car :P

Thanks mate, I indirectly got mine through Streeter.

I have a huge question...

How hard are you turning on the street if you're wearing the outside of your front tyres with ~1.5 degrees camber?

Have you checked the rest of your toe/caster settings?

Caster is on max with bushes (around 6-7 deg) and aim for zero toe on the front. -1.5 deg is plenty for cruising around but imo if you want to have a bit of fun sometimes in the corners 1.5 on the front is not much help. On the other hand I wouldnt be running over -3deg front and -2.5 rear as I am now if I was daily driving the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...