Jump to content
SAU Community

Effective Bonnet Venting For Turbos


DJRIFT
 Share

Recommended Posts

id never thought about it that way. so the air coming in through the rad escapes throught the front of the bonnet meaning no air flows throght the rest of the engine bay?

and we also had the bonnet spaced up to clear the cooler piping so that didnt help.

No after air passes thru rad it then either travels down side of engine & downwards under the car by firewall or upward to the rear of the bonnet. My understanding is that it travels downward & under the car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mark and russ's 32 had the rear of the bonnet on their 32 raised and swore it helped. Anyone else think it actually works? or is the consensus rice?

**runs off to remove spacers from bonnet*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a car (32 GTR) from japan with the rear of the bonnet spaced up. I thought it was a bit gay and everyone always thought my bonnet didn't close properly. when i got the chance I removed the spacers. temps definitely went up a bit. so yeah it's doing something. no doubt base of windscreen is a high pressure zone so maybe it's ingesting air through there and helping it force the other engine bay air (from the front bumper ducts) down the trans tunnel (which is where engine bay air escapes in a factory standard car with no bonnet venting)? I haven't studied it enough to know for sure but it's possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a car (32 GTR) from japan with the rear of the bonnet spaced up. I thought it was a bit gay and everyone always thought my bonnet didn't close properly. when i got the chance I removed the spacers. temps definitely went up a bit. so yeah it's doing something. no doubt base of windscreen is a high pressure zone so maybe it's ingesting air through there and helping it force the other engine bay air (from the front bumper ducts) down the trans tunnel (which is where engine bay air escapes in a factory standard car with no bonnet venting)? I haven't studied it enough to know for sure but it's possible.

function over fashion it is then.

i'll be the guy in the paddock with the riced up purple gtr. come and say hi.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well the only other thing I'll say is russ and mark do test what they do. I'm sure if it wasn't working they would have put it back. I know average temps were noticeably higher when I removed my spacers without any other change.

if nothing else just give it a go. it costs practically nothing and takes only 20 min or so to remove and replace the bonnet. with some mates to help you can just fit one side at a time which is even easier. get a temp probe under there somewhere, or just log oil and water temps over a session, then do the same with/without the spacers. if results look good, keep it, if not back to standard and back to head scratching!

will definitely come say hi and then ask you if you realise that your bonnet is not shut properly... lol :rant:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from memory mine were about 15mm maybe 20mm and I think there were longer bolts too as I seem to remember when I removed the spacers the bolts were too long. washers and longer bolt are fine. if you find it's beneficial you can always machine up a neater looking spacer later on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trail braking done right, should have the rear unsettled, such that you're actually turning the car by a noticeable amount WITH the brakes, and hence noticeably less steering input.
    • No you don't. Just no more driving in the wet, and clean your window manually before you drive
    • I'm not sure if they tick your boxes, but Haltech would be my pick. I'm an Adaptronic guy from way back, and Haltech acquired Adaptronic to basically get Andy, AND his IP on how he does things like fuel modelling etc.
    • Just on this, as there's a huge issue in your assumption Dose.   The logic you've given, is the same logic old school NA guys give for "needing back pressure" in an exhaust. If you free up an exhaust system, and keep injecting the same fuel in etc, at the same timing, you'll typically drop power. Freeing the exhaust will often make an engine want a little bit more timing, and even sometimes a little more fuel, but then it'll make even more power.   There's many mods people do and "get no extra power" when running a comparison on the same tune. Imagine a car tuned for 91, but now we say put 98 in it, see no difference. But as we now have 98 fuel, you can run more timing, and make more power, as the 91 was knock limited.   So just be very wary in your claim of "don't retune it and do a back to back and you'll see". The correct approach would be tune the car with stock manifold, swap the manifold to aftermarket, and retune it again. But no one wants to do that, and all the results we get are "this was stock, and this is manifold changed and tuned" and people put it all down as just the tune doing it.
    • Unplug ECU. Unplug TPS. Unplug boost pressure sensor. Now, all the wires, placing your ground (black) multimeter lead at the ECU end, measure resistance of the 5V line at the boost sensor plug. Then do the same to the TPS plug. Then do the same for all the other wires that relate to the TPS, or boost sensor.   All of your measurements should be very very low. You're looking to see if wiring is out of wack here.   Secondly, from memory on the R33 (not a neo motor, so I'm assuming an r34) the ground wire for the TPS and boost sensor are NOT equal to ground of the car/battery. IE, DO NOT connect ground of the sensor to the engine/body of car. You'll get a ground loop, and/or potentially screw shit up. In electronics, ground for a circuit, is not necessarily equal to ground of another circuit.   So this leads me to ask, when measuring your 5V, how are you getting 1.5V? Where are your multimeter leads touching for both the red and black lead on the multimeter?   If you're measuring power on the sensor wire, and putting ground on the car chassis or negative battery terminal, that could be all of your issues in "getting 1.5v". Electronics engineers can do some funky stuff with circuits, and when both sensors are on, it's enough laid to alter how the ECU is functioning.
×
×
  • Create New...