Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a S2 Manual R33 GTS-T

Mods are:

3inch turbo bach exhaust, high flow filter (BMC), R34 SMIC GT-T, Walbro 255lt/hr pump and a full service inc timing belt, plugs etc.

I have been getting the R&R flat spot on cold nights (sub 10 degrees in melb at the moment) and the other night hit what I have since discovered is Air flow cut (maxing out the AFM).

The car runs std boost (5/7psi solenoid)

Some people run 12psi with no problems so I dont uderstand why mine is doing it?

I dont want anymore pwoer than this I just want it to be right with the standard boost (its a daily)

Is it worth swapping the ECU or AFM over? I have heard they can be hit and miss (some will carry on like mine and some wont?) or is it time for a remap?

I dont mind getting a remap but with these mods im suprised I need one>?

Thanks

Jason

i think you should do nistune or powerfc or safc and be done with it

nistune is undetacable, powerfc is easy to reverse if defected, safc is most annoying to remove

all of those should let you avoid the R&R, give some more power and better fuel economy

do you have a boost gauge ? or just assuming its still 5/7 ?

i have 2 friends in nz with series 2s with r32 actuators on them . 11 psi . and they go fine even when its snowing . maybe reset the ecu . and run some more timing

Does your afm need a clean? Can you swap out with someone else to test? Get a boost guage - you can just run the tube through the door to get a reading but good idea to get one fitted anyway. You will benefit from getting a Nistune (not too complicated as you have a manual ) or look out for a cheap pfc. (... and of course a tune from a GOOD tuner).

Yeah I have a boost gauge (not an expensive one) but it does show 5 then 7.

I have cleaned my AFM before and have reset ECU. Timing was done by sabbaddin automotive when I had my timing belt changed.

Is this problem more likely to be my AFM or the ECU? I might change whichever it is over as I dont really want to get a tune just yet with such basic mods, rather wait until I have something more substantial.

Thanks for the replies so far

The more I think about it the more I wonder if the AFM is on its way out. Seems to explain alot, too many people dont have issues with their cars in the conditions that I am. thoughts?

Mate I am having exactly the same problem as you (but with an R34) running about 7.5-8psi on Greddy profec II, full service, coils, plugs changed and tested.

Bought a new AFM and just waiting for it to be delivered. Will let u kno if it makes any difference

i have 2 friends in nz with series 2s with r32 actuators on them . 11 psi . and they go fine even when its snowing . maybe reset the ecu . and run some more timing

Im running the same and dont have problems either. It has hit RnR a few times on really cold mornings, but that was in the dead of winter.

Id try borrowing a known working AFM before ordering a new one. A friend of mine bought a new AFM because he thought his one was bung. Turned out it wasnt. $600 odd down the drain.

If only he'd taken my offer of borrowing mine...

If your car is series 1 I think boost limiter problem ( R&R)

(series 1 and 2 bit different program. because series 1 do not have second throttle sensor )

If your car is series 2

Sounds like

1) change spark plunges.

2) replace coil pack.

3) change ecu.

it is a series 2. has new plugs and hae checked the coils.

I actually found a vaccume leak this morning. I have fixed it at work. Would this cause my problem? it was a decent split in the hose. Looking forwrd to the drive home to test it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...