Jump to content
SAU Community

Audio Dummy Here?


Anquetil
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm after some recommendations on a cheap Amp & Sub, audio is not my number one priority in the car, so it ceratinly doesn't have to be an award winning setup.

How are these for example, really bad?...

http://www.strathfield.com.au/product.asp?ProdID=76

http://www.strathfield.com.au/product.asp?ProdID=537

At the moment it still has the 4 speaker setup, with a semi decent Pioneer head unit that does the job. Front speakers are shite, rears seem OK, sorry for the lack of detail.

Do you run the sub and rears off the amp, and run the fronts off the head unit?

Where is the best place to install the amp & sub, I value my boot space, next to the battery?

Thanks for any help.

Are there any threads for newbies to read on audio?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

by the looks of it, it seems u have around less than $400 to spend on a sub and amp.

If u front speakers are good, yes, amp them with a 4 channel amp with 2 channels to the front, and the rear channels bridged to the sub.

leave the rear speakers running off the headunit.

Good subs for $200 might be the Alpine type s or the Fusion few-12 or JL-audio w0's . For $200 for the amp, look at something like a jaycar 4x50rms. This will bridge to 150rms at 4ohms for ur sub and 2x50rms for the front speakers. IMO those 3 subs above r better than that mtx. U'll need some money for cabling aswell, if ur gonna leave ur setup like that, 8Gauge cabling should be enough. 4G would be better, but i dont think u'll need it. Leave about $40 for that + all other wires rca's etc. $20 for wood for a box if u can build it urself. (sorry i went over the budget..but with the amp and subs u should look for 2nd hand or something and get the best possible thing u can when ur on a tight budget..maximise what ur getting).

good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are your speakers stock!?! if so they only have 15watt rms which means you'll most prob blow them with an amp. maybe try and look at upgrading the front ones aswell that way the rears still sound ok but the fronts will be good and u can amp them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty much same advice as nav2k.. just get some good fronts .. you can do without the sub for a while until you really want good big bass (or maybe you don't care about bass, depends what you listen to).

Best to stay clear of some of the "no-name" brands as while they might often say "800watt" 800watt can mean anything, and they could sound shithouse even at mild volume, and can have bad background hiss, etc which can really shit you when listening to quiet bits of music. Soon as you put it in you'll regret it. For under $200 for a "200watt max peak per channel" (equates to around 50wRMS.. not much more than your face unit), i'd definitely stay clear!!

For a reasonable 4x channel you're probably looking closer to $400 min. Like Nav2k says also, jaycar has some reasonably priced amps in the budget end. Just looking at their latest sale catalogue I have in front of me.. they have a 4x100w RMS (@4ohm) for $379.

I've got a mono amp of theirs powering my 12" sub, and pretty good... I only paid $130 for mine too! (a SAU group buy i organised).. RRP is about $200 - so you could look at that if all you want is an amp to power a sub.

Best just to get 2x best you can afford for front, 2x reasonable for rears.. and wait until you can afford the amps, etc. For many sometimes just 4x speakers powered off the face unit are fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, I agree with the predator. Its no good getting a lot of bits n pieces if your not gonna get quality components cos all you'll end up doing is complicating the signal path which increases distortion. If you look at it another way: say if you had an awesome sub but a crappy amp, all the sub will do is let you hear the crappy signal from the amp clearly. Stay simple and get good bits, that way you can always add to what you've got, and not suddenly decide that what you have is crap once you get something better. A really good 4 speaker or even 2 speaker config if its set up right will destroy some of the no name budget sub n amp packages.

Actually, if audio is not ur priority you might want to consider some 6x9s and ditch the sub idea. True 6x9s aren't good for clarity, and most audiophiles would stay completely clear of those, but they are a good compromise for base. Think of it this way: the oblong shape stuffs up the clarity, but each one has approx surface area of an 8 inch sub - hence good for bass, not clarity. Would probably be ok if u had nice splits (ive never tried/heard this before though). At least you'll save on weight and space. But to get to the full potential of good 6x9s you'd need to run them off an amp though. The head unit will probably underpower them.

But then again, in audio it all depends on how deep you wanna go into it and how picky your ears are. ie: no point getting $800 splits if you cant hear the difference between $400 splits - some ppl can, some cant. Do what sounds good to you. Hope that helps. btw, when ur testing out spkrs on a demo wall, listen out for differences between spkrs on the same setup, same song cos they will inevitably sound completely different when installed in ur car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I'm taking your advice and holding off on the Amp & Sub till later.

For now I'm going to get some good quality front & rears.

Head unit is a Pioneer DEH-P2050 45x4.

The current rear speakers may still be stock, Clarion 30Watt's? (Sound better than the fronts ATM)

And the fronts I'm unsure, but there yellow.

I know how to access the rears but how do I access the fronts, I have to pull off the door trim right? But how?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sub and amp for $400 including cable and enclosure?

Sorry, but with all due respect, do yourself a favour and just go without for now because those four things for $400 is only going to end in tears. :P

Even using second hand equipment. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I definitely get the low power, sporty car to drive to smash gears but not be doing eleventy million miles an hour! It makes all the normal drives fun!   Rev match tune sounds like the funs! I didn't know the NC had a DBW throttle!   As for me, still have the Skyline, it still has the Barra in it. It's been pushed to the side of the workshop at the moment. Pretty much waiting on me finishing the wiring, and dropping new fuel lines in. Got myself an ACDC Tig end of last year so been teaching myself TIG welding to build a few things for the Skyline. The missus wrote off her GTB liberty at the end of last year, and got it back on salvage rights stupid cheap. It's also still registered, so will mean easier for me to take to the track already done most of the panel damage, just playing "clear the workshop" to make space to pull the motor and box out, fix some oil leaks, replace the clutch, and replace a few minor broken things.  Also got a Lathe at the start of the year, which is adding to the annoyance of no space, which is another reason I'm trying to build things to get more space, to get the Lathe back in a final home for it. It's a BIG lathe, can turn a 355mm diameter, and 1metre between centres... Got it at a steal! So between it and the TIG and old MIG welder, I'll be fabbing some fun little shit up But we've had a lot of shit stuff happening at home, so it's slow going getting things done. But one step at a time!
    • I love Catalunya.  Got a 1:54.632. The AMG is a hoot.
    • I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
    • It's more so I'm using the 1x piece line from HEL that goes from the body to the caliper. There's no middle block/mount like the HFM ones or the GKtech ones. There are certain angles/suspension compression where the line actually slightly contacts the ARB. Below of how mine sit (not my photo): How I want it:  
    • Oh I have mine all sitting in boxes ready to go, two sets of rotors, four sets of pads and caliper rebuild kits. They send a survey asking me if I had installed them months ago :p Grinder not necessary to fit the fronts, and not *really* for the rears. They have some good simple videos on how-to. I don't understand brake lines but from what I understand... somehow... OEM lines work, even though people say 350Z and 370Z use different banjo bolts, so it's possible 350'z had some different setup that Nissan changed to the 370Z/R33/R34 system? ....though are a little short, but past-me made a new bolt hole to bolt them to to reach my current fronts so I should be okay... maybe. In any case HFM don't sell any *different* line kits for R33/R34 front brakes than they do for the 370Z kits. So in my mind they must be compatible or they would have different products made to suit the different calipers. Please test and confirm for me kthx.
×
×
  • Create New...