Jump to content
SAU Community

Car Not Starting

niran

By niran,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

um a couple of weeks back sometimes my car didnt start, then i would try again and it would kick over. As time passed it got worse until last friday afternoon where the car would not start at all. I do have an imobilizer and when i unlock it and turn the ignition switch over i get all the lights on the dash (normal pre start lights) and hear my fuel pump prime. However it just dosnt seem to kick over. I even tried to jump start it with jumper leeds thinking it was a flat battery however that didn't solve the problem. In the end a few of my mates and i ended up pushing starting the car which seems to work fine without any hesitation.

My first thought was it must be the starter motor, so i brought one of them from a guy on the forums. Today i swapped it over thinking i could drive my car again and went to turn the key and again no luck, the car didn't start..

So my question is, does anybody know whats wrong with my car? or what i could check to see if that's the issue?

cheers guys, Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337644-car-not-starting/
Share on other sites
niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted
do the headlights dim when u try to crank it over?

hey man, um nah headlights and all stay the same brightness when i try to crank it over. nothing happens the warning light for i think cat comes on? the one that looks like a catalytic cover-tor sign and has waves off it.. representing heat im assuming..

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted
when you try to start it, does it turn over or just make a clicking noise?

hey, nah dosnt turn over at all just makes a clicking noise from the inside of the car which is coming from the fuse box under the steering wheel

niran Proficient

niran

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thats flat battery... either get a jump pack or a new battery... it will start

Jarrod

hey man,

thanks dude, i put mums cars battery in mine and it started :S .. no idea why it didnt start before when i tried to jump start it with jumper leeds.

thanks again

jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

no worries, jumper leads dont deliver enough current to get the car started when the battery is fairly flat, could be due to the cheap leads i have but ive always had to leave them on for a good 15 mins with the other car running to get it started... a jumper pack however fires it up first go every time :)

Jarrod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Chocolate Cheesecake.
      Infiniti Q60 Navigation Update

      By Chocolate Cheesecake. · Posted

      Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • R0yalT
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By R0yalT · Posted

      Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
×
×
  • Create New...