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Hi Guys

Im looking at going to a dry sump setup to help with the longevity of the engine that im having built, what i need to know is:

1) Do they have any benefit on a street/400m car?

2) Do's and don't?

3) What i should be looking for?

4) Where do i get them from?

Thanks guys, and please if you dont know dont post since im only after experienced opinions not internet racers

Jordan

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There is an old edition of Zoom Magazine that goes into dry sumps fairly well. Has an interesting setup featured too.

They can help to rectify surge problems at the drags and in circuit racing type environments.

Definitely a job for the pros though. I will try and find the issue number when I get home tonight.

Adrian

they would deffinately have a bennefit on the strip, what tyres do you plan on running? As with any slick or cut slick the car, even a GTR nearly pick up the front wheels from the ground (i remember see a pic of keir wilson after they used the Mickey ET streets and it looked like a rwd car on the launch), this may cause problems with oil pickup.

Do get someone who knows what they are doing and has a lot of experience in the area, they are very good when setup properly but i would say can be done wrong easily.

the whole set up is quite easy....1st you need to source a scavange pump then the rest just make up yourself...the sump plate can be made up out of billet alloy plate and machined up....you can also releive the head of oil by tapping into the head itself depends on the paticular engine in question...this helps stop the oil raining down through the engine...The benefits is an excellent supply of oil to the engine at all times,releif of pressures inside the engine and the less drag on the crank as less oil will be flinging around in there....heres a custom built engine with a dry sump where the plate has been milled up from billet....

this guy is in melbourne and is very intelligent

Hi ylwgtr2, it's not that easy when you have differential hanging off the side of the sump and a drive shaft going through the middle of it. To get a GTR sump to empty properly you need 3 stages of scavenge.

I think he owns an R33 GTR???

Since its a drag GTR we are talking about, is a dry sump setup any lighter, i think they may actually contribute weight to the car.

So be sure that you absolutley require a dry sump setup to maintain adequate oil pressure, i suspect a baffled sump will suffice.

Not to sure about drag cars (9 second cars) but dont cars typically pull higher gs when braking and cornering. So how heavily are they needing to brake at the end of a run?

I hope this helps some, I've been looking into this subject myself. Here is what I've recieved from Gary Armstrong here in the states (http://www.drysump.com/price.htm), the email order goes from bottom to top:

I did talk to Nissan, and it seens your oil pan is integral with the gearbox and is therefore different from the Z pans we make. We can , however, modify your pan to work I am confident. If you could send me a pan, I will work out the best design for you, and give you an estimate. The rest of the system is no problem, so haveing a pan here will allow me to give you an intelligent plan as to hoe to go about your system. Let me know. Thanks, Gary

-------------

That sounds really good, we should have no problem making a mounting bracket for the pump. Let me know when you find out about the pan. I didn't know they had the same bolt pattern as the Z's, but I might be able to send you an extra pan to work with if you find they are not the same. Let me know what you find out from Nissan.

--------------

I believe the RB 20 is the same bolt pattern as our 240-280Z Dry sumps, right? I have an e mail into Nissan to verify this. I have these in stock, as well as dry sump pumps in 3 and 4 stage. We also can incorporate a drain in the pan for your turbos. The mount for the pump is something that most engine builders make themselves, ( flat alum. plate generally mounted @ side of block) Our pump has 4 mount holes in the side which make for an extreemly ridgig mount. We also can provide you with the Tank, and drive pulleys ect. Please feel free to call me at 916-987-7629 or e mail, if you have any questions. Thank you, Gary Armstrong www.drysump.com

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I am looking into making a dry sump system for my RB20DET motor. This is a 2L straight six single turbo motor if you are not familiar with it. Here is a site dedicated to it for some reference http://www.rb20det.com/index.html

We are a shop in Charleston, SC and I am looking to use this type of oiling setup in our shop car. The motor is being built to redline at 8500rpm (rotating assembly is balanced to 9k). I don't know if boost is a factor in the making of a setup, but the motor will be boosting about 25-28psi and producing around 400rwhp. The car will compete in road coarses and autocrosses mostly. It will also compete in drift events from time to time.

Thank you very much for your time and help!

One question, does the front diff have its own separate oil, or does it rely on engine oil in the sump sloshing around?

A properly sorted dry sump system is going to be a very good thing if you can afford it. Developing your own system, or using untested components might lead to all sorts of unexpected problems and unreliability.

It would be a pity if you burned down several engines before you finally had your dry sump system fully sorted. I would be a bit cautious of someone who says, yes we have never done a GTR before, but we can supply you what you need.

I have never run a dry sump system myself, so cannot speak from experience, but I have seen knowledgeable people lose engines after fitting something as simple as an external oil cooler because "something" went wrong.

On a drag car, would it be possible to just use a very deep sump, and keep the oil right away from the crank ? Simplicity is often a virtue.

The Japanese seem to know all about making GTRs go really fast, do they use dry sump systems ?

No answers I am afraid, just questions............

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